Jump to content

Junghans Ato-Matic movement.


Flubber

Recommended Posts

I just got an old wall clock that used to be my grandfathers. The movement it uses is an electro-mechanic Junghans Ato-Matic movement that looks interesting. I tried to just replace the battery but it would seem that was not enough and the clock stops after just a minute or so. I suspect it needs some oiling and cleaning or something. 
 

So my question is, does anyone know anything about such a movement ? Is it possible to "service" it ? If not, how do I choose a replacement movement that will fit and may use the hands (no seconds hand though) ? I tried browsing cousins for it but there were many and I got tired, besides it would be cool to use the original movement, I think.

 

Thank you !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Movements like these were meant to be replaced. But it's old enough that it still has screws and if I look at the video found that the link

https://youtu.be/UKDvSjjoPNc

It probably could be serviced but is not necessarily meant to be serviced but it would be a little easier than the modern plastic stuff that's definitely meant to be thrown away.

Then providing it doesn't have a secondhand you could easily replace it with a modern quartz movement. The vessel secondhand is going to be a dead giveaway cousin is not going to run nice and smooth like it once did. But there may be movements today that do have smooth moving secondhand I is haven't looked in the long time. Then when you're changing a movement the problem always is the hands a lot of time people would just replace the hands with whatever is recommended for the movement their use.

Also looks like the movement may occasionally be for sale on eBay at least was googling it I saw the references but they weren't there now

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi  when replacing a quartz movement there are several things to take into account, the shaft length   What type of movement/hands are required,  Roundshaft,  Euroshaft,    I.Shaft     as they all differ as do hand styles   and also the size of the movement.  There are many distributers of quartz movements and many different prices,  Newgenerationclocks,    Clockparts.co.uk     Clockparts.com have a video on choosing a movement which may be worth a look.               cheers

Movement Identification Guide - Clock Spare Parts UK.html

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have successfully disassembled the movement and cleaned with some degreaser which seems to have worked even though most of the weheels were made of some kind of plastic. Ir was needed. 
 

My problem now is what I should use for lubrication ? I only have ordinary watch oils and greases from moebius ? I was thinking about using HP1300 for pivots and perhaps some 9504 or molykote on some bars and axels (?). Would that work ? Do I have to lubricate the teeths and/or leafs on the wheels.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For lubrication nothing on the teeth or the pinions typically. Use the 9504 on anything that is a high friction typically metal on metal will work fine. Technically for the plastic wheels they actually do make a lubrication for plastic. Then the HP oil should work fine on the balance pivots it's a really big heavy balance wheel in any way. I'm just not sure if you want to put anything on the plastic because I don't know if it's going to react with the plastic Or not.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I assembled the movement and lubricated as I saw fit and it was up and running !  But I think the plastic wheels were to brittle so when I tried to set the time some teeth broke :-( so now the clock stopped. I don't see any spare parts anywhere so I will buy a new, cheap, quartz movement instead, perhaps radio controlled.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi nickelsilver, thanks for the great explanation and the links! I'll take a good look in the article.  Especially this is great news to hear! Looking through forums and youtube videos I was informed to 'fist find a case and then fit a movement for it'. But seems that's not the case for pocket watches at least?  I guess I should be looking to find some 'male square bench keys' for now. I was thinking of winding the mainspring using a screwdriver directly, but I found a thread that you've replied on, saying that it could damage the spring. 
    • Murks, The rate and amplitude look OK, and the amplitude should improve once the oils you have used get a chance to move bed-in, also I notice that you are using default 52 degrees for the lift angle, if you get the real lift angle (assuming it's not actually 52) this will change your amplitude - maybe higher, maybe lower. I notice that the beat error is a little high, but not crazy high. At the risk of upsetting the purists, if the balance has an adjustment arm I would go ahead and try and get this <0.3 ms, but if it does not have an adjustable arm then I would probably leave well alone. Just my opinion.
    • Hi everyone on my timegrapher it showing this do a make anymore adjustment someone let me know ?    
    • Maybe I'm over simplifying this and I'm a little late to the discussion, but just by my looking at oil when I use it on a treated cap jewel  the oil stays in one nice bubble, but when I don't it spreads out to the edges of the jewel. I'm not sure (but could well be wrong) but the analogy of a waxed car and rain is accurate in this case, the wax is very hydrophobic and repels the water, however, the process epilame works by is a different physical process based upon cohesion/adhesion (oleophilic) not repulsion (oleophobic)  at least as far as I have read/observed. If one were to use a oleophobic substance equivalent to wax (hydrophobic) then one would need to create a donut shape to fence in the oil, however if one used such a strategy with a epilame which is oleophilic then the oil would sit on the ring of the donut and not in the 'donut hole', exactly where you don't want it. Even if the oil is smeared then the oleophilic epilame should pull it back to the center (see diagram below). Reference For interest the chemical in epilame is 2-(PERFLUOROHEXYL) ETHYL METHACRYLATE, CAS NO: 2144-53-8
    • Looks lint the teeth on the hour wheel aren't meshing with the teeth on the calendar intermediate wheel, maybe the hour wheel is sitting on top of this instead of meshing?        
×
×
  • Create New...