Jump to content

Barrel Help

JTravis

By JTravis
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

JTravis Member

JTravis

Posted
Posted

Hello all, this is my first question post.  I did introduce myself in the other section though.  I have been practicing repairing on a lot of old 50s junk watches.  This way I don't feel bad if I break them.  This is the second time I have come across this issue.  After I strip, clean, oil and reassemble these watches, everything works well except the hour and minute hand do not move, or move very little.  The amplitude is fine and the second hand is keeping good time.  I think it might be because of the strange additional gear on the barrel in the picture I have provided.  It is attached to the bottom of the barrel arbor and is friction fit.  The barrel teeth drive the second hand and the balance, and this additional gear then drives motion works.  I think that because it is friction fit, it is slipping too easily and that the friction of the motion works is stronger than the friction of this gear.  Has anyone seen this before?  Should I put some sort of breaking grease on it to make it not turn as easily?  I am guess this is what prevents the pulled out crown from affecting the mainspring.  Any insight would be welcome.

 

DSC_0092 (2).jpg

Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted

Please do always provide the caliber. 

The seconds hand moving indicates the movement run is runing, hr and minute hands not moving or move little, points out to loose canon pinion.

Check and tighten the canon pinion.

 

JGrainger WRT Addict

JGrainger

Posted
Posted

I've seen these but have never bothered with those watches.. can you post the movement calibre or a picture of it? I might have something around to check against.

JTravis Member

JTravis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Here are a couple more pictures.  Yes these movements don't even have jeweled pallets, just metal spikes, and only one jewel.  I figured they aren't worth restoring, but they seem great to learn on.  Every time I try and look up one of the companies online there is little information and they all say "mass produced swiss movements rebranded."  I will definitely open it back up and give the pinion a try.  I had just not seen that extra gear on the barrel in any of the youtube videos I have described and it seems part of the movement works.  Thanks for taking the time to respond.

DSC_0077.jpg

DSC_0075.jpg

JTravis Member

JTravis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I just took the watch apart again and its not the canon pinion.  There is no through pivot on this watch so the canon pinion just sits on static metal, its the weird extra gear that is supposed to drive it.  I put a small mark on it and left it for a while and that gear is not turning at all despite being attached to the barrel.  I think I just need to somehow increase the friction of that gear so that it only slips when setting the time, but not when the watch is ticking.

Klassiker Distinguished Member

Klassiker

Posted
Posted

I think your analysis of the problem is good, but I don't know how to increase the friction on that wheel. Can you disassemble it further or get views from different angles?

JTravis Member

JTravis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I figured out that it was a Baumgartner 866 movement.  I found a site that said this: "indirect minute, hand friction clutch on barrel (Roskopf type)"

So, I think what i am going to do is peen the inner ring tomorrow so it presses more firmly on the the friction fit gear.  That should increase the friction in the same way tightening a canon pinion would do.  I will post pictures.  Luckily I have a scrap barrel to practice on.  I'm not sure how "tight" a perfect canon pinion feels, but I'm guessing its something like "it turns, but only if you put some work into it."  I am still very new at this hobby.

JTravis Member

JTravis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So, one hit with the hammer and pin and the gear turned much more tightly. Once I put it all together it work as expected with the hour and minutes turning properly.  So, for this kind of movement, its the gear on the barrel that needs to be tightened instead of the canon pinion.  The watch is running very fast, but that is a whole different problem.  Thank you to everyone that responded.

 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Nucejoe
      Greetings from Whidbey Island.

      By Nucejoe · Posted

      Hello and welcome to the WRT forum.
    • JohnR725
      A lathe with indexing that won't break the bank?

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      interesting video nice to see the machine what it can do now I wonder what it costs and I'm sure it's not in my budget. Plus the video brought up questions but the website below answers the questions? What was bothering me was the size of his machine 4 mm because I thought it was bigger than that? But then it occurred to me that maybe they had variations it looks like four, seven and 10. With the seven and 10 being the best because way more tool positions in way more rotating tools. Although I bet you all the rotating tools are probably separate cost https://www.tornos.com/en/content/swissnano   Then as we been talking about Sherline. Just so that everyone's aware of this they have another division their industrial division where you can buy bits and pieces. I have a link below that shows that just in case you don't want to have the entire machine you just need bits and pieces. https://www.sherline.com/product-category/industrial-products-division/   Let's see what we can do with the concept I explained up above and bits and pieces. For one thing you can make a really tiny gear very tiny like perhaps you're going to make a watch. Then another version the center part is not separate it is all machined from one piece. Then fills gear cutting machines have gone through multiple of evolutions. A lot of it based on what he wanted to make like he was going to make a watch unfortunately eyesight issues have prevented that. Another reason why you should start projects like this much sooner when your eyesight is really good or perhaps start on watches first and then move the clocks then local we have from the industrial division? Looks like two separate motors and heads. Then it's hard to see but this entire thing is built on top of a much larger milling machine as a larger milling machine gave a very solid platform to build everything.   Then like everything else that had multiple generations are versions the indexing went through of course variations like above is one version and the one below was the last version. Now the version below I mentioned that previously and somewhere in the beginning to discussion and somebody else had one in their picture. As it is a really nice precision indexing. Then I wasn't sure if I had a the watch photos here is his unfinished watch. No he wasn't going to make a simple watch like none of his clocks were simply either what would be the challenge and that.    
    • Titanium
      Lab Coats

      By Titanium · Posted

      Use a Portwest Howie lab coat. They are the biological type so they have tapped cuffs so you don't end up getting the loose cuffs of normal lab coats catching everything. 
    • Titanium
      Chinese tools debate

      By Titanium · Posted

      Some of the Chinese tools ae great and can be purchased at a fraction of the price of Swiss ones, some are complete garbage and some I'm convinced are coming out the same factory as the branded ones.
    • caseback
      Calendar work certina 25-651

      By caseback · Posted

      I found this string about this problem. I've not gone through it all, but I believe it also mentions making a spring. If not in this string, the info is online.
×
×
  • Create New...