Can someone please explain to me how on earth do i unwind this Seiko 5126A movement prior to reassembly? (Picture attached).
No manual winding as far as I could find and the winding screw on top of the bridge is not counterturning automatically when I push back the click and basically nothing happens. I can unscrew it but this just releases the screw.
I'll mention that I did experimented with this movement (it's my watch) and first time accidently removed the bridge with power still left. No visible harm was found and after reassembly (hopefully a proper one) everything seemed in order (except for the oiling and cleaning which I haven't yet performed and is due now).
Hello all. I recently purchased what I though was a Seiko 5 project watch. The case back says the movement is a Seiko 6309- 7200 movement. However when I removed the works (and disassembled) it was not a 6309, at least I don't think it is. FE 5612 is stamped on the movement plate and when I looked that up I found pictures of the exact movement on the Ranfft Watches site. So I guess I have two questions. First did Seiko use this movement on their watches and somebody perhaps changed case back, or did someone replace the Seiko works with the FE 5612. Second, does anyone know of a location to find a service manual for the FE 5612 movement? It does not seem to want to go back together nicely (do they ever?) and I am wondering if I have something misplaced as the only description I could find states: "Strange. Train and Hand Gear separately driven by barrel (cf. MSR T43)." I also need a stem and crown and don't have a part number.
Thanks for any and all information.
Today I show off what is probably the most accurate Seiko NH35 in existence.
Let's see what this brand spankin' new Invicta does on the timegrapher:
Oof. Ya hate ta see it. I know these numbers aren't anything to cry over for an 80 dollar automatic, but considering how these days microbrands stick this movement in watches costing hundreds more, and Seiko themselves with the equivalent 4R in watches costing even more, it's just not great. The rate itself to me is a trivial matter as nudging on the regulator is a trivial task. But what speaks to the quality of a movement in my eyes is the consistency of that rate in different positions. With 12 seconds per day difference across positions, middling amplitude, and fluctuating rate while static, albeit slight, is all just a bit "meh" to me.
Let's crack it open and see what we can do.
Hairspring seems to be pulling towards stud.
Hairspring removed from balance and mounted on cock and we can see the full extent of the malformity. That collet is a good ways off from the jewel.
Few hours of sweat later:
Much better! Regulator now runs the full length of the terminal curve without disturbance and collet is centered on jewel.
Let's check out what else I saw:
Some places are absolutely flooded.
While others just barely got any. A good thing I intervened. This thing needed to be redone top to bottom.
Stripped apart, ready to get rid of the crappy factory lube job, and get a real, proper lube job.
All put together, lubed, and few rounds of dynamic poising later:
Massive boost in amplitude, runs on rails and a measly 1 second difference across all positions. Wasn't lying when I said "probably the most accurate Seiko NH35 in existence." See for yourself.
Isn't it at the moment a bit of a waste that this souped up NH35 is being trapped inside its Invicta skin? What do you think?
I got this Longines winding watch from my mother-in-law many years ago. She has since passed away, so I can't ask her if it ever worked for her. I'm sure I asked at the time, but that was a long while ago, I don't recall her response. The hands never budged from 12:00 (or whatever time you set it to). I took it to a jeweler twice, and paid $60+ each time to figure out what was wrong, but neither of them could fix it. I'm thinking that this one might be outside my scope (obviously...I'm a total novice at this and they were both professionals), but thought I'd go ahead & check with y'all and see what ideas you had that I might look for. Perhaps they were trying to keep their time down to spare me their cost. There is zero rush on this, I will probably keep picking it up and thinking about how to tackle it as I gain more experience repairing other watches. It's fun!!!
I am after a clasp for an old digital junghans watch, I wasn't sure if this forum permits these requests?
I did check the forum rules and it makes no mention of it only about selling.
Can one of the more seasoned members help before I post the request?
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I have slain a few of the helpless beasts myself.
Not sure. I suggest deionized water and maybe a tiny bit of alcohol. Less is more These glossy dials show every scratch, although Rolex’s insistence on avoiding anti-reflective coating on their flat crystals to enhance “bling” makes it harder to see the scratches...
I am getting good at it!!! did it quite a few times trying to find what is causing the stiffness. So I found it... it is the magnetic wheel marked bellow. But... if I try to rotate the magnetic wheel with a stick directly it rotates just fine and rotates the entire mechanism just fine as well. So it is not stuck. I've tried the other magnectic wheels and got the same result and none of the wheels are bent or have broken teeth.