Jump to content

Swap Rolex Movment 3035 for 3135?


Recommended Posts

My 1987 college graduation gift from my departed father is a 1987 stainless Oyster Perpetual "transition" model, model number 166000 which can be googled.  They were only produced in the latter half of 1987.  It has never kept good time, has probably been off by >20 sec/day, despite overhauls every 5 years (until about 10 years ago).  This can be remedied.  It is a Rolex, and is a beautiful watch, so I'd like to get it going again. 

I'm fairly confident that the oscillating weight's axle is broken.  I can hear the oscillating weight wind the watch when I gently turn it and hold it to my ear.  It was never this way before. 

I got into this hobby with the dream of overhauling my own Rolex.  Where I am now; I think I will never attempt to overhaul this watch. 

I know keeping the original 3035 may make the watch more valuable, but price isn't a motivator--I'd never sell it. 

My choices are to send it to Rolex, or replace the movement.  I can get a 3035 from eBay for $2,200 USD.  I could also swap the existing 3035 for a 3135 movement. 

I'm quite comfortable removing and reinstalling hands, the stem, the movement, the dial; and I'm toying with the idea of replacing the 3035 with a 3135--so I could change the movement myself. 

I've searched, but can't find definitively if the 3035 to 3135 is just a one movement out/other movement in operation. 

The major differences are the balance bridge and power reserve, with the 3135 being better in both regards.  The 3135 can be had on eBay for a few hundred dollars more. 

So to recap:

1. send to Rolex for service?

2. swap the 3035 for a 3135 myself for about $2,500?

3. buy a replacment 3035 for $2,200?

 

Thank you all again for your help. 

 

 

 

Edited by SparkyLB
Link to comment
Share on other sites

27 minutes ago, SparkyLB said:

My choices are to send it to Rolex, or replace the movement.

Not true, there are very many competent, independent watch repairers in the US (and elsewhere). They may be able to repair what you think is not repairable, that includes obtaining part or even making new ones. For the US search AWCI directory, plus the Internet for reputation and customer feedback.

Edited by jdm
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you, JDM. I will look into that. It’s just been ingrained in my head that a Rolex should be serviced by them. I’m beginning to realize that members of our community might not be Rolex, but perhaps better.

I appreciate your time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Second and third choices are definately not good ones, there is no gurantee replacements off ebay run any better. You can have a long story to tell and 2500 bucks short in no time.

Did Rolex service your watch before? and do we know of a better choice.

What is wrong if anything with your watch is unknown.

Even if your watch keeps on loosing 20 seconds a day after a service, it's sentimental value is genuinely invaluable. 

Regards

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A lot of this depends upon where you're located. In the US there are still independent watchmakers who have Rolex parts accounts. Of course they're going to charge about the same price Rolex charges. There's also independent watchmakers who do not have Rolex parts accounts and can still get Real Rolex parts I'm going to skip over how that occurs at least for now Rolex is slowly eliminating all independent watchmakers. he plan is to set up service centers I can the US there's one in Texas that will take care of the bulk of the actual servicing. In the store watchmakers will take care of all of the rest. As far as an independent watchmaker God's they are the ones that are disappearing but they're still out there at least for now.

You don't need an all or nothing approach just find somebody competent To service your watch.  Movement swapping would be a bad idea it sounds like your movements fine the axle breaking is common they can get replacement axles that's not an issue.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm glad I asked.  After ordering a couple of Oris watches from India on eBay, I noticed the dials had been rubber-cemented to the mainplate, the lubrication looked like used motor oil, and there was no shortage of hair particles inside.  Also the dials had been repainted, painstakingly by hand.  It was quite an unsatisfactory attempt.  I imagine that spending $2,200 for a "Rolex" movement would be a bad decision, who knows what defects lie in this used Rolex movement. 

Thank you all for the words of wisdom.  Nucejoe, yes.  The watch has been serviced over the years by Rolex 3 times.  I very unwisely stopped investing in the watch by keeping it serviced.  I now know better.  JDM, I'll look into AWCI and see about getting it serviced by someone I can trust. 

I feel sort of stupid for even asking.  I should know better, this particular movement in my watch may have not been the most reliable for keeping time, but there are two variables I neglected: first, in the hands of the right person it can be corrected.  Second is the old adage, "the devil you know. . . " 

Thanks again, all. 

 

Edited by SparkyLB
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
9 hours ago, SparkyLB said:

I checked exhaustively on the AWCI listings and many numbers are defunct, others are wrong numbers, and a few were jewelry stores.  I'll keep checking, though. 

Another place to look and ask are owner's forums like WUS. Most members there are from the USA.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

I've decided to do this right and save up and send to Rolex.  Whatever it costs is worth it for peace of mind alone.  I feel like I'm "there" as far as having the skill to do the work, but it's the little things--like I don't have a cleaning machine, I will NOT clean all Rolex parts by hand, and more minutiae such as lubricating the reversing wheels.  Finally, I'd need at least one part.  I'm fairly sure the oscillating weight's axle is broken.  By the time I acquire the replacement parts, epilame, and the tool to properly open the watch; I'd probably be about $500 shy of what the repair cost would be.  

Better to transfer the liability for $500. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not being a Rolex owner, I don't have any first-hand experience of this, but Rolex seem to be particularly keen to swap out not only worn functional parts, but also aged cosmetic parts, without asking. With an heirloom piece like this, it would be worth being quite clear with them in advance not only about the work you want done, but about what you don't want done. I'm thinking particularly of  the dial and hands which have a history in common with you and your dad, and you might be sorry to lose them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, Klassiker said:

it would be worth being quite clear with them in advance not only about the work you want done, but about what you don't want done. I'm thinking particularly of  the dial and hands which have a history in common with you and your dad, and you might be sorry to lose them.

that's a nice thought but is there any way to implement it? It's my understanding that Rolex will restore the watch in whatever fashion they deem is required and you don't have an input on this.

As you want to keep certain aspects of your watch I would make sure that you communicate with them in writing ahead of time. No phone calls so you have or could have misunderstandings it has to be in writing. Because that then might be considered a written contract and if they violate the contract you could take legal action not that that's going to be as nice as getting them to do what they're supposed to do. Then of course if you get a go-ahead that they will do it your way make sure that's included with the watch do not assume they'll remember whatever it is there supposed to be doing.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • then just as I want to see if there is any differences I looked in the balance staff book. So basically with the exception of the super shock whatever that is it looks like they're close enough in length  they should be fine.      
    • Thats what i have scott. Read back a little i posted a few pictures. Basically i put a small quantity of around quarter inch in the bottom of a tin and heated it on a leccy oil burner. It doesn't need much heat, stuck the jewels to the lid with bluetack and the fumes coat the surface pretty quickly although the first i did i left for 5 hours but it does only take 5 mins if that. The coating does seem to come off easily so i am not sure if it actually works, but the stuff is really cheap and worth an experiment or two. I have seen that mix somewhere but vapour coat is supposed to be better.
    • Would be interesting to see how well steric acid compares (or not) to the various epilames out there - anyone know the mixing ratios and solvent(s) etc for the steric acid?
    • I assume you're using 9415? the concerned with 9415 and I'm attaching a PDF from Omega is too much can cause a decrease in amplitude. This is why you look at what they do they go to extreme lengths to put extremely tiny quantities. so as you've discovered proper lubrication of the escapement increases the amplitude. We've seen it on this group where people are having typically newbies issues and I will ask if they lubricated the escapement the usual answer is no they had not because and once they did they saw spectacular improvement. one of the amusements with lubrication tends to be so many variations. For instance I was in a classroom once and the students all came from for the most part accredited schools in watch repair. So the instructor asked how did we lubricate our escapement's and I don't remember the actual quantity but it's really quite amazing how many people can interpret slightly different ways of doing the same ask. Of course the instructors method was the approved one. This was the place a drop of oil on the impulse face of the exit stone. Allow one third of the teeth to go by and place another drop then another third and your escapement should be lubricated. But sometimes and yes it will show up in the timing machine you'll see in your regular line because if the oil didn't transfer all the way around to the other stone that does cause a issue with the timing machine. Oh but when I was in school we were using 9010 as 9415 did not exist yet although 941 did which is an oil recommended for escapement's. it has to be dissolved in a proper solvent with the right amount of concentration as you want a microscopic layer on whatever your treating. My understanding is the vapor process is the very best but the vapors are not good for human consumption. The reason why the vapor process is nice is that it puts a very very thin coating on versus dipping in a solvent which can vary depending upon the concentration.   8645_WI_40_rules for lubrication cousins.pdf
    • A modern restorer would probably try to inject adhesive as suggested and then weight the repair down. Some damp might have caused the bulge originally.  Traditionally the veneer would have been sliced and glue eased under the two flaps then again weighted back down and refinished once it had cured.  It doesn't look like just an adhesive issue, more than likely expansion of the veneer, worse case it needs a slice taking out. Try some gentle heat on it first , inject glue and weight, to see where it goes.
×
×
  • Create New...