Jump to content

A little cry for help , 1 question from novice .


Recommended Posts

Hello, everyone

Please could someone help me with a basic question as I live on a remote Uk island with no watchmakers.

I am about to replace the ETA 955412 movement in my 1992Tagheuer 6000. (See picture)

I have removed the Tag stem from the old broken movement and before removing the (temporary stem ?) and inserting my tag stem into new ETA I wanted to ensure I have the stem in the correct position and if battery should be in.

I have read conflicting stem positions on line hence the question.

Thanks for reading any help would be appreciated.

Gary

1BAEFCE5-2941-4E7C-929C-726E82B31B83.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Gary at all times unless testing the movement leave the battery out, whilst manipulating the stem into position .  It will be best to use the stem provided with the module. some of the modules require you to put the stem into set position before removing as this keeps the clutch assembly and associated gears in place to enable an easy fit of the stem. Failure to do so causes the clutch to drop requiring re alignment before the new stem can be fitted. To do that you need to remove the calendar work to gain access to the keyless work.  I have attached the tech sheet which covers this movement for you.        good luck

ETA 955.102, 955.112, 955.122, 955.132, 955.402, 955.412, 955.422, 955.432.pdf

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for answering . Please excuse my ignorance on this subject 

Do mean it’s best to use the stem with the Plastic crown that came with the movement?

And please could you let me know what the ‘set’ position is ?

regards

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the event you need a time-sensitive answer, I'd guess that watchweasol did mean to use the stem that came with the replacement movement. Perhaps that is because it will not have wear on it that the old one will have. It probably won't matter much though, providing the watch it was in was winding and setting well before replacing it. If you use the new stem you will likely have to cut the stem a touch and fit the crown.

"Set" position means with the stem pulled out in the position to set the hands.

Good luck.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally, with a screw-down crown like that, I’d just re-use it as is. It may be thread-locked in place. 
 

I always aim to keep them in the inner stem position when removing, but it’s not essential. Gently twist the stem when you insert the new one. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you all for your response I appreciate your help

it looks like the stem position does seem to split opinions or may not be important.

i will be doing the switch later this week, so I’ll need some luck.

Anyone else willing to offer any advise, I’m all ears and will take onboard.

regards And thanks again 

Gary

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My best piece of advice for that movement is to use a screwdriver blade which is wider than the stud that you press to release the stem. This controls what depth you press it to. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, Gary55 said:

I have removed the Tag stem from the old broken movement and before removing the (temporary stem ?) and inserting my tag stem into new ETA I wanted to ensure I have the stem in the correct position and if battery should be in.

If you wish to use the new stem (not necessary if the one you have is undamaged) you can unscrew the plastic crown and replace it with the TAG crown. However, the TAG crown may be more or less glued to the threads of the original stem so that could possibly pose a challenge. You would probably also have to shorten the new stem using a cutter tool like this and you would possibly need to file the sharp edges after the cut (a simple flat diamond file works well for this). It's a bit fiddly...

The battery should always be removed while working on the movement. Replace the battery (preferably with a new) just before replacing the case back.

There is no "correct position" except the square section of the stem must be fitted into the square hole of the sliding pinion (AKA clutch wheel) so while inserting the stem, apply a little pressure on the crown towards the center of the watch while gently rotating the crown a bit back and forth until it goes in (into the square hole of the sliding pinion which you can't see). Unlike when you remove the stem, you will not have to depress the setting lever button when you replace the stem. Just shove it in! You can see exactly how the stem fits into the winding stem here.

You might find my ETA 955.112 service walkthrough useful. I believe it is identical with the 955.412!?

Good luck!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’d just like to add that what WW says is very relevant to this forum. Opinions do differ sometimes, and it can be hard to know sometimes what is best based on other opinions alone. In reality, you have to let experience decide for you in the long term. It may also be that your practical “style” defines how you work. 
 


 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Success !! with your  help and minimal tools, I managed to get my watch up and running again.

thank you all very much

i put new hands on that look a bit overly (old hands lume had fallen off ) with the new lume compared to the patina on the face. I could not for the life of me get the new second hand on, but original went on easy.

really happy at the mo, hope it all doesn’t fall apart .

cheers Gary

39FE88B9-FFF0-4857-8523-1E5E9C34DACC.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Re. rust removal: I'm using a formula created by one of the science channels on youtube (Elementalmaker).   It's cheap, not acidic and works in a similar way to  evaporust, but seems milder. It has worked well on everything I've tried it with so far, with no detrimental effects. The formula is: Per 100ml deionised water; 5g Tetrasodium EDTA [from amazon or ebay etc] then enough citric acid to bring it to ~6.5ph, testing with ph paper, plus a few drops of washing up liquid / dish soap. I've only made one, 100ml batch so far and it shows no signs of stopping working, though it is starting to look a bit murky!   These spring winding arbours were the worst rusted items I've put in it - they had quite heavy scaled rust patches; you can see the darker grey areas where the rust ate in to the metal, compared to the untouched areas. The small clock parts are unaffected by the solution, other than the rust having gone. (I've also used it on such as setting levers & other keyless components, that had quite significant rust from water ingress).
    • No, the Peseux 7040 is doing very well as far as the rate (and amplitude) is concerned. The maximum delta measured was 20 seconds between fully wound, crown down (+8 s/d) and fully wound minus 24 hours, crown up (-12 s/d). Compare that to the ETA 2763 having a delta of over 80 seconds. What I was trying to convey was that I observed that the much higher amplitude of the Peseux movement during a 12-minute measuring period could momentarily fluctuate by 30° just like the much lower amplitude on the ETA 2763. I haven't studied the History graph on @praezis PCTM software for any other than these two movements but I wouldn't be surprised to learn that these fluctuations in amplitude during a 12-minute measuring period are the rule rather than the exception for all typical non-high-end-chronometer movements.
    • I'm presently using a cheap supermarket ultrasonic cleaner, with L&R #111 cleaner and #3 rinse solutions. I cut a bit off the bottom of an appropriate size plastic sports drink bottle, which is a perfect fit around the mesh basket I use (~65mm diameter). That allows me to use mostly water in the machine tub and cleaner or rinse only in the small plastic container. I keep the solutions that are still fit for use in small glass jam jars. I use the cleaner then two rinses, then the mesh basket balances on my bathroom radiator (once it stops dripping) to dry the parts with moderate warmth. Prior to that I tried just lighter fluid (eg. generic zippo fluid) and just soaking / swirling parts in the glass jars, but the movements did not run at all well afterwards, they were still acting gummed up. The proper solutions make a world of difference & the watches now work as they should!    
    • Have to agree with you. Will not do another. Did not enjoy the time spent. However, it was worth it to know that I understood how to disassemble, look for defects, repair and then assemble. Timegrapher? No facility to alter anything other than the stud. Everything is metal to metal.
×
×
  • Create New...