Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello again.
This clock seems to be more trouble than it's worth (probably why I am trying to fix it).

I have been stripping down and cleaning an FHF 15cm and have finally been able to remove the chiming mechanism to clean the wheels and the front plate. However, I am still unable to remove the centre wheel and it's arbor because of the chiming mechanism's trigger. Has anyone got any idea how to either remove the trigger or the small brass piece that holds the arbor in? I have tried gently heating it and tapping it but that hasn't moved it.

20200520_143454.thumb.jpg.01bfd85a707c4ad58bf45dee59645df5.jpg
20200520_143419.thumb.jpg.da4e3ff4aef52ba22d16e09a43da16f6.jpg
20200520_143440.thumb.jpg.4ebbe786dcb0a9cf530ce919016aaf39.jpg
Posted

You can support the backside (think bench vice almost closed) and tap it out with a brass hammer. Without support you will probably not succeed in getting it out but you may well succeed in damaging the plate or bending the arbor. I usually use levers, and then if it's still stuck after getting it as far off the plate as levers will go, using a screw type puller.

puller.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Why do you want to remove it? If you do not need to do any repairs to it leave it as it is. As someone says you could do irreparable damage. 

  • Like 1
Posted

As stated by Old Hippy why remove it =, If the hole is not worn and dosn't require bushing they are best left alone,    as continued levering an pulling without the correct tools ( Nicklesilver)      damage the cam/gear or bend the center wheel shaft, not to mention getting it back on if you mange to remove it.

Posted

Fair enough. I will leave it there and clean the movement as it is.

I actually dismantled it to fix a problem with the chimes and now I have realised what went wrong, I am planning to take the opportunity to re-bush several worn holes. It was run until it completely stopped (about 30 years ago) and it is only over the last few months I have taken the time to have a proper look at it.

Posted

Yes i agree with oldhippy or anyone else.  The arbor is set at the factory.  Personally, I hate that i cannot clean out the pivot but to re-mount the four pronged pinion such that it matches the time shaft arbor tip where the minute hand is attached is literally a pain in the ass.  Leave it alone.  Unless its stopping the clock due to a sloppy pivot hole, i never attempt to remove them

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • What you’re saying is that if the entire coil is lifted or tilted either up or down it is due to a slight twist in the spring? Usually next to the stud?  I’ve chased this before and in one instance the spring came out of the stud and I had to reinstall it and secure it in place.  Do you find that the angle (not twist) the spring leaves the stud not only affects how it centers in the regulator pins but also the coil spacing? This could be caused by a distortion in the spring as it grabs and release the pins. I find turning the stud counter clockwise opens the coils 180 degrees away from it. So do I adjust the stud in relation to the regulator pins or to the coil spacing?  I also find that unless I remove the balance from the cock I can’t see the slight distortions in the spring. In my picture the distorted spring looked fine when installed. Do you use Alex’s technique of sliding the regulator arm up and down the curve to find distortions or can you visually see them?   
    • So if anybody overrides what i say, listen to them haha. I'm not an expert but i've just been in this boat a dozen times as i used to mess up hairsprings bad, but the good part of that was that i got to learn how to fix them.  What made my life SO much easier was learning how to adjust the hairsprings with the balance installed on a disassembled mainplate, unless it's a very serious problem or on an inner coil you can't get to i would recommend trying this in part because the spring will mostly ALWAYS look flat when the balance wheel is not installed on the cock. Install the balance wheel back in the cock and the cock with the cap jewels in the mainplate, with it installed even the most imperceptible twist will be pretty obvious. Just make sure the balance jewels are also installed. In these movements, if 99% of the time any twist or problems gonna be around the terminal curve, twists often near the stud, especially if you've been removing their awfully designed studs from the balance cock. If there's a reliable way to install those things without introducing a minor twist to them i haven't found it. they're an awful design. INstall the balance on you mainplate WITH your capstones/chatones and look sideways across the balance under magnification. Look for the highest or lowest spot of the now not flat hairspring. 180 degrees from that high or low spot is where your twist will be. You have to be VERY careful with twists as the tiniest over or under twist brings it out of flat. If the area i have to untwist is near the stud i just use a pair of #5 tweezers or some very sharp fine curved tweezers and gently see which way i twist it corrects the twist, then i hold the very fine point of the tweezers on the hairspring and just gently squeeze and check it and see if it started to correct it, then i rinse and repeat. Tiny adjustments is what you want, don't close them all the way, and dont' introduce a flat spot in them. it's just a little nudge by closing the tweezers on it at an angle. .  If the twist is not near the stud, i grasp the hairspring with some very fine curved tweezers as gently as possible while still holding it then i do that same sorta tweezer squeeze with my #5's. 
    • Has it got the logo on the crown. I think you're best option is going to be to remove the damaged stem and measure it. Edit Do you have the case reference number.
    • Movement is Omega 1012. I bought this from Cousins: 
    • Welcome to the WRT forum.
×
×
  • Create New...