Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
7 hours ago, jdrichard said:

Lighter fluid is the best, most available and cheap

Surely  is not "the best", it is not reccomended by any school.or manufacturer, in short it is not an horological product. Of course it is on books that are 70 years old as they didi not had any better then. And about being cheap itay seem when you by 125cc, try comparing per liter to motor gasoline and petroleum ether. 

Posted
In the Netherlands we call car petrol "benzine", 95 or 98.
I just use isopropanol, recommended by a watchmakerfriend.

Isopropanol will soften and wash away the shellac. Take care with the balance and pallet fork. Just a quick dip of a few seconds, then straight onto watch paper to take off the excess, then use a puffer to dry the critical areas where the shellac bonds on the jewels.

After 4 years using lighter fluid and thinking I was getting parts clean, I now use Elma watch cleaning product. Amazing how I fooled myself about how clean was clean. Also, try an ultrasonic which are very cheap nowadays.

In general, IPA (isopropyl alcohol)is not a good cleaner, but is good for the final fine rinse if done quickly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 3
Posted
7 hours ago, Deggsie said:


Isopropanol will soften and wash away the shellac. Take care with the balance and pallet fork. Just a quick dip of a few seconds, then straight onto watch paper to take off the excess, then use a puffer to dry the critical areas where the shellac bonds on the jewels.

After 4 years using lighter fluid and thinking I was getting parts clean, I now use Elma watch cleaning product. Amazing how I fooled myself about how clean was clean. Also, try an ultrasonic which are very cheap nowadays.

In general, IPA (isopropyl alcohol)is not a good cleaner, but is good for the final fine rinse if done quickly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@DeggsieHappily I only use  it for a quick dip...do you use the Elma cleaning product for  balance and pallet fork too?

Posted
On 6/7/2020 at 7:09 PM, markr said:

Manual states that gas is used as a rinse not as a cleaner.

It is a good rinse for an ammonia based solution bath but when it comes to soften old lubricants petrol is the most effective.

Of course do not expect it to brighten metal when used alone. 

Posted
[mention=4300]Deggsie[/mention]Happily I only use  it for a quick dip...do you use the Elma cleaning product for  balance and pallet fork too?

Yes. Elma WF pro is safe with shellac.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • So if anybody overrides what i say, listen to them haha. I'm not an expert but i've just been in this boat a dozen times as i used to mess up hairsprings bad, but the good part of that was that i got to learn how to fix them.  What made my life SO much easier was learning how to adjust the hairsprings with the balance installed on a disassembled mainplate, unless it's a very serious problem or on an inner coil you can't get to i would recommend trying this in part because the spring will mostly ALWAYS look flat when the balance wheel is not installed on the cock. Install the balance wheel back in the cock and the cock with the cap jewels in the mainplate, with it installed even the most imperceptible twist will be pretty obvious. Just make sure the balance jewels are also installed. In these movements, if 99% of the time any twist or problems gonna be around the terminal curve, twists often near the stud, especially if you've been removing their awfully designed studs from the balance cock. If there's a reliable way to install those things without introducing a minor twist to them i haven't found it. they're an awful design. INstall the balance on you mainplate WITH your capstones/chatones and look sideways across the balance under magnification. Look for the highest or lowest spot of the now not flat hairspring. 180 degrees from that high or low spot is where your twist will be. You have to be VERY careful with twists as the tiniest over or under twist brings it out of flat. If the area i have to untwist is near the stud i just use a pair of #5 tweezers or some very sharp fine curved tweezers and gently see which way i twist it corrects the twist, then i hold the very fine point of the tweezers on the hairspring and just gently squeeze and check it and see if it started to correct it, then i rinse and repeat. Tiny adjustments is what you want, don't close them all the way, and dont' introduce a flat spot in them. it's just a little nudge by closing the tweezers on it at an angle. .  If the twist is not near the stud, i grasp the hairspring with some very fine curved tweezers as gently as possible while still holding it then i do that same sorta tweezer squeeze with my #5's. 
    • Has it got the logo on the crown. I think you're best option is going to be to remove the damaged stem and measure it. Edit Do you have the case reference number.
    • Movement is Omega 1012. I bought this from Cousins: 
    • Welcome to the WRT forum.
    • To get the full diameter, I'd have to take it out of the case, which I won't be able to do until the screwdrivers arrive.  I doubt that it's much use to you, but the raised rim on the case, encircling what you see of the movement, has an outer diamter of 28 mm and an inner diameter of 24.8 mm. The case outer diameter is 32 mm.
×
×
  • Create New...