Jump to content

Click and spring removal on Elgin 303


Recommended Posts

Hello all,

I am following the video lessons with an Elgin 303, and ran into an issue.

The click screw will not budge. The other movement screws have been no issue, even the crown wheel screw, which was counterclockwise. Before I possibly strip it, though, which I don't want to do, I was wondering if I was missing something extra that is unique to older movements. 

Thanks again all. 

20200513_072339.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Adam  I suppose you have tried the counter clock, Therefore we assume its just seized. Two methods which are not invasive are heat and the penetration oil, Probably the only time WD40 can be used on a watch.  The heat method is to ude a soldering iron with a broad to heat up the screw so a to break any rust/corrosion which may have occured or alternativly a bit of WD40 on a blade and put round the screw and left to soak, or make a reservior with rodico round the screw and fill with WD40/penetration oil and again leave to soak at least 24hrs.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You may have to give the pentrating oil 48 hrs, soak for longer period nearly gurantees success. If the jewels have no chaton, you can just drop the bridge in some Coca cola, that two needs a good soak 48hrs, attack with a well dressed screwdriver, you will be surprised how easy it unscrews after a long soak.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, watchweasol said:

The heat method is to ude a soldering iron with a broad to heat up the screw so a to break any rust/corrosion which may have occured

 

Would it not be better to heat up the plate around the screw so that it expands around the screw rather than the screw expanding into the plate? That's what I'd do with most other machines, but I can imagine issues with the much tighter tolerances... Heat application with a soldering iron tip is also more precise than a torch....

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Heat is the last resort, since it can warp the plate, the least it may discolour the screw. I always soak the piece in coca cola for a day or two, have not broken a single screw yet, try it on a pratice piece, you be surprised.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't suppose that the click physically is still functional? Because of it is I would just leave it alone. 

then as nice as WD-40 is for some people they actually make penetrating oil for screws. Conveniently I can't find the stuff that we have at work comes in a white syringe. The stuff at the link below should be equivalent.

http://www.julesborel.com/products/tools-lubricating-oils/Kroil-Penetration-Oil

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

I always soak the piece in coca cola for a day or two, have not broken a single screw yet, try it on a pratice piece, you be surprised.

The active ingredient for this purpose found in Coca Cola is phosphoric acid. It's the same active ingredient in a variety of rust removal products. On the one hand, it may be one of the least expensive and most readily available sources for phosphoric acid in relatively low concentrations, but there's a lot of not-phosphoric acid in there as well. If you can get your hands on a proper rust converter, it may be a better option. Not all rust converters are good for watches though. I like to use Evaporust when I restore cast iron tools and the like, but it will convert more types of iron oxide than just the red flavor, including and especially the critical blue... Turns everything black. Found that out the hard way.

Edited by spectre6000
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you all for the replies. I think for now I'm going to leave it be, as I should be able to remove the rest of the watch with it in place. But I'll probably try the wd40 or coke in the future.. wouldn't have thought those were safe,  myself..  :)

thanks again all

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't suppose that the click physically is still functional? Because of it is I would just leave it alone. 
then as nice as WD-40 is for some people they actually make penetrating oil for screws. Conveniently I can't find the stuff that we have at work comes in a white syringe. The stuff at the link below should be equivalent.
http://www.julesborel.com/products/tools-lubricating-oils/Kroil-Penetration-Oil
+1 on Kroil. I have used this stuff on rust-siezed automotive bolts that after a few minutes turn easily. It's really freaky.
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • No John, we don't want Mark to change anything, we are just scared of losing a brilliant forum and losing contact with each other.  As pointed out, this forum is full of knowledge and I for one,  consider the regulars friends. I would hate to lose contact with you and the others.   PS, this forum is really important to me. 
    • one little minor problem with your chemistry experiment here which is what exactly is epilam? In other words is it an exact substance with the chemical you specify or is it a term? For instance originally it was steric acid either dissolved in some sort of solvent or it was applied by vaporizing it. Then now it's all kinds of different things the watch companies all have different ideas there's a whole bunch of patents. So is not always an exact substance.   let me snip out a image from the patent that I attached up above. Notice I highlighted something it seems to disagree with your evaluation.  
    • I guess You had to try, as it would be hard to sleep without that try, but, I know the result before the experiment... As I told before, the friction will be so big that the wheel will not turn. The pivots have to be thin and polished - the bigger the number of the wheel (2th, 3gh, 4th...), the thinner the pivot. What You are trying to do is possible, but forming the new thin pivot must be done on lathe. Thus the wheel will get shorter, but can have new pivot without the drilling for normal standard repivoting. Then piece of brass can be soldered under the pivot hole in the bridge and new hole drilled in it to form the new bearing.  Well, this way is not the recommended one, not quite correct, but it is possible to do for the excersize... When I say lathe, lathe may be verry simple, someting like turns, but made of what one has in reach of his hands. If You want to try, I will try to guide
    • yes by all means let's gather up our weapons tar feathers find the nearest tree in case Mark is not agreeable to our terms on our demands and storm his Castle. I don't quite understand what you're trying to do here? In other words you want Mark to somehow guarantee that the group will live on forever no matter what? You want Mark to somehow change his business model of what is trying to do or should we just take the group away from him? oh and is quite possible that Mark never realized that his discussion group would take on a life of its own. That the members of the group would like to continue on forever.  
    • I'm not sentimental, I see it this way.  I inherit something I  don't like, I could sell it, buy something I do like and remember the person with the new item.  For example, I  inherit a watch ( I haven't), I don't like it, I  buy a watch I do like, every time I look at the watch, I think of the person. 
×
×
  • Create New...