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Click and spring removal on Elgin 303


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Hello all,

I am following the video lessons with an Elgin 303, and ran into an issue.

The click screw will not budge. The other movement screws have been no issue, even the crown wheel screw, which was counterclockwise. Before I possibly strip it, though, which I don't want to do, I was wondering if I was missing something extra that is unique to older movements. 

Thanks again all. 

20200513_072339.jpg

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Hi Adam  I suppose you have tried the counter clock, Therefore we assume its just seized. Two methods which are not invasive are heat and the penetration oil, Probably the only time WD40 can be used on a watch.  The heat method is to ude a soldering iron with a broad to heat up the screw so a to break any rust/corrosion which may have occured or alternativly a bit of WD40 on a blade and put round the screw and left to soak, or make a reservior with rodico round the screw and fill with WD40/penetration oil and again leave to soak at least 24hrs.

 

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You may have to give the pentrating oil 48 hrs, soak for longer period nearly gurantees success. If the jewels have no chaton, you can just drop the bridge in some Coca cola, that two needs a good soak 48hrs, attack with a well dressed screwdriver, you will be surprised how easy it unscrews after a long soak.

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1 hour ago, watchweasol said:

The heat method is to ude a soldering iron with a broad to heat up the screw so a to break any rust/corrosion which may have occured

 

Would it not be better to heat up the plate around the screw so that it expands around the screw rather than the screw expanding into the plate? That's what I'd do with most other machines, but I can imagine issues with the much tighter tolerances... Heat application with a soldering iron tip is also more precise than a torch....

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Heat is the last resort, since it can warp the plate, the least it may discolour the screw. I always soak the piece in coca cola for a day or two, have not broken a single screw yet, try it on a pratice piece, you be surprised.

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I don't suppose that the click physically is still functional? Because of it is I would just leave it alone. 

then as nice as WD-40 is for some people they actually make penetrating oil for screws. Conveniently I can't find the stuff that we have at work comes in a white syringe. The stuff at the link below should be equivalent.

http://www.julesborel.com/products/tools-lubricating-oils/Kroil-Penetration-Oil

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2 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

I always soak the piece in coca cola for a day or two, have not broken a single screw yet, try it on a pratice piece, you be surprised.

The active ingredient for this purpose found in Coca Cola is phosphoric acid. It's the same active ingredient in a variety of rust removal products. On the one hand, it may be one of the least expensive and most readily available sources for phosphoric acid in relatively low concentrations, but there's a lot of not-phosphoric acid in there as well. If you can get your hands on a proper rust converter, it may be a better option. Not all rust converters are good for watches though. I like to use Evaporust when I restore cast iron tools and the like, but it will convert more types of iron oxide than just the red flavor, including and especially the critical blue... Turns everything black. Found that out the hard way.

Edited by spectre6000
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Thank you all for the replies. I think for now I'm going to leave it be, as I should be able to remove the rest of the watch with it in place. But I'll probably try the wd40 or coke in the future.. wouldn't have thought those were safe,  myself..  :)

thanks again all

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I don't suppose that the click physically is still functional? Because of it is I would just leave it alone. 
then as nice as WD-40 is for some people they actually make penetrating oil for screws. Conveniently I can't find the stuff that we have at work comes in a white syringe. The stuff at the link below should be equivalent.
http://www.julesborel.com/products/tools-lubricating-oils/Kroil-Penetration-Oil
+1 on Kroil. I have used this stuff on rust-siezed automotive bolts that after a few minutes turn easily. It's really freaky.
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