Jump to content

Chair Recommendations


SSTEEL

Recommended Posts

Just wondering what you guys park your rear ends down when working at your workbench?

 

I currently use a modern computer chair, and whilst it maybe comfortable, its a **BLEEP** noise chair, creeks, and squeaks, and is starting to do my head in.

 

Seeing as my workbench height is standard office desk height right now, I would like a chair which I can lower down to a milking stool level, but with the ability of raising it up for when I am working on my computer/keyboard.

 

I considered getting an old milking stool just for work, and my computer chain for computing, but trying to find an all in one solution, plus I was a lot of films in the evenings, so having the recline function is a must.

 

Basically I spend all day on the same chair (pretty much), so its got to be a solution that will last, and not a temporary fix/solution.

 

Look forward to your ideas.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Micky,

 

I, like you, have about the same routine! I use my computer chair for the computer but in the odd instance I need higher, it doubles as a watch chair because of the adjusting lever.

 

I made a stool -- maybe like a milking stool but 4 legs -- some time ago with the right height for my classical guitar playing. I use it too as my watch chair. It is not as high as I would like -- for maybe one inch - so the bench (portable one) sits a little lower and that works well so far. The trick is my legs are not bent and I'm in a comfortable position. I really haven't looked for an all in one chair since there is always a compromise and I do hate the noise when working on my watches!

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, I have made a makeshift stool, and comfortable with the height, so now I'm looking at foot stools, they come in all sorts of designs and structure, some look quite comfy too.

 

Post pictures when you're finished. I'm going to try to also make a stool to match the style of my old workbench I just bought so would like to see what you come up with.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • We need to identify the movement to help you, but the oldest of these Rolco watches use Aegler-Rebberg movements that lack a calibre number and are very difficult to identify. You may end up having to make or modify a stem to fit . Post pictures of both sides of the movement when you have it and the size of the movement and hopefully it’s one that has a calibre number.  Gruen used a lot of the same Aegler movements at the time and it’s worth comparing your movement with those if you can’t find it labeled as an Aegler or Rolex/Rolco calibre. Best Regards, Mark  
    • Onlly a pro's eye would notice that OH, you've still got it old fella 🙂
    • The triple lobed spring, as you suggest needs to be rotated to remove it or replace it. Suitably shaped pegwood should suffice, but tools (shaped as you describe) for the purpose also exist.  If you have an assorted of replacement springs, a trilobe style KIF spring of the right size might fit.  The other spring securing the jewel also needs rotating. There is a slight opening in the setting at about the 5 o’clock position in your photo and one side of the spring should be able to be removed  there when rotated into position.  Hope that helps, Mark
    • As an update, it transpired the setting on the balance side, with the jewel had one flat end and one curved. When I rotated it enough it popped out. The chaton was entirely conical and a tricky customer but once lubricated and dropped back in I put the flat edge in first and poked it in with the peg wood tool mentioned above (I made it with flattening off the end then sizing with a pencil sharpener before poking a hole in the end) then rotated and it went in well.    For the other side, magnet searching for the spring has been fruitless.    thanks for the link to the other thread
    • Thank you. It didn’t look rusty. For sure old.    Female part was inside the movement, and when I pushed male part, it got broken. I didn’t apply grease. Here is the photo.      Could it be that male part is too thick for some reason?
×
×
  • Create New...