Jump to content

longines

gary17

By gary17
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

gary17 Super WRT Addict

gary17

Posted
Posted

hey

I have a 1940-45 military marked longines

The case number is23087 132

and the movement number is 6964304.

And under the balance i can see a number ending 68n

68n does not appear to be the ending to any longines cal.

So how do i find the calibre of this watch?

cheers

gary

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
saswatch88 WRT Addict

saswatch88

Posted
Posted (edited)
42 minutes ago, gary17 said:

hey

I have a 1940-45 military marked longines

The case number is23087 132

and the movement number is 6964304.

And under the balance i can see a number ending 68n

68n does not appear to be the ending to any longines cal.

So how do i find the calibre of this watch?

cheers

gary

 

 

 

 

Its Sweep Seconds movement Cal. 12.68N. Used In Longines military watches during wwii. Maybe your not seeing the 12 it may be hidden by the balance cock or wheel.

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Longines_12_68N

229031_372_attachment.jpg

Edited by saswatch88
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Dmitry
      Eta 2970-1 rotor mount stops watch

      By Dmitry · Posted

      Here are the pics of the bridge. Looks correct, but as soon as I screw on the rotor, the watch stops. Video here: https://1drv.ms/v/s!ArG5E62RGctxjokY5ws85BzuJLVakA   Pics. Might have figured it out. I have been working on this watch for a while and since I got it as a non runner in a terrible shape, there was no guarantee that parts were proper. I think the main screw that was used on the rotor was too long, so it was stopping the main train. As soon as I fished out a much shorter and larger headed screw, things were good again. Please celebrate with me.  
    • KarlvonKoln
      B-Dip residue?

      By KarlvonKoln · Posted

      One-dip or naphtha should be safe, but are you sure it isn't magnetized?  I would also check that.  Although, if that balance is from an Elgin 760 0r 761, I would think it would have a hairspring of non-magnetic alloy.
    • Curare
      Spell Check

      By Curare · Posted

      Hi, Is there a spell check function available when you are posting ? Regards CJ
    • Curare
      Replacing armoured crystal in a front loading watch case…

      By Curare · Posted

      Hi John I just did a Seiko Lord-Matic a front loader without a split stem, I used a crystal lift to remove it, although I had to have it that tight I though I was going to break the lift before the crystal would budge. So I decided that the press would be a better option as I think crystals with tension rings resist a lot of compressing. I used a crystal press to repalce it and the bezel with no issues, obviuosly a different watch to the Omega. I just took my time and kept inspecting the installation progress bit by bit Regards CJ
    • Zendoc
      Replacing armoured crystal in a front loading watch case…

      By Zendoc · Posted

      Hello All, I’m replacing the crystal in an Omega Dynamic, # 165.039, which houses a cal 552, installed through the front of the case. The replacement Sterncreuz crystal is, like the original, with tension ring. I removed the crystal using a compressed air technique to pop it out.  (I have a crystal lift, but I’m always fearful of marking the crystal edges and so avoid using it as much as possible). Now to the replacement -  any tips on putting the crystal back in?  Am I obliged to using my dreaded crystal lift to complete the task, or how about a crystal press?  I’ve put lots of crystals in using a press, but never with the movement in the watch. The thought of using one with a front-loader makes me very nervous, with the fully assembled watch sitting under the press. How would more experienced folks proceed here? Any advice, gratefully received… John Down Under…
×
×
  • Create New...