Jump to content

recognising calibres


gary17

Recommended Posts

Hi

I know you get the calibre of a watch from the movement. But i also know a lot of these companies buy basic movements and add or change them.

A lot seem to be by eta. Is there away of knowing what eta calibre model it is.Or does this all come down to experience?

cheers

gary

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sometimes you find the information mentioned on the internet other times you just recognize the similarities between the 2 movements.

Some movements are just branded with a different name, others are modified to some extent. 

Edited by Chopin
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Gary  As you appreciate most movements have logos and calbre  numbers but those that dont  usually have the same characteristics  of the numbered variatey The most common movement ported onto other manufacturers cases is as you say the ETA family  eubauches. the older unmarked  movements were identified by the flume or setting lever spring . The Bestfit books are good for this or there are specific books on flume identification, They are quite expensive. The Bestfit Books I and II were put on the site by OLD HIPPY some time ago and are mine of information, probably the watch makers Bible. There is no substitute for experience.       

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Gary  I found them   If you type bestfit into the search at the top right it will list all incidents of the word just step down them untill you find Old Hippy post with the two links, open the links and down load the books,  ok. They are in zipped format  for transmission.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, watchweasol said:

Hi Gary  I found them   If you type bestfit into the search at the top right it will list all incidents of the word just step down them untill you find Old Hippy post with the two links, open the links and down load the books,  ok. They are in zipped format  for transmission.

The links have expired.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I did that also for a few movements - well, mainly in/around the train jewels. I made big efforts to epilame the mainplate WITHOUT getting Epilame into the Pallet fork jewels (where it's not supposed to be, right?). I made litte barriers with Rodico around that jewel and used drops from a syringe to apply on the rest.  However, I've now stopped doing this. For three reasons: 1. It's a hassle and consumes more of this liquid gold. 2. I didn't see the need when using HP1000/HP1300 lubricants and grease for most part. The two places where I'd use 9010 (i.e. escape wheel and balance) receive Epilame in specific places... or the cap-jewel-setting of the balance suspends the oil sufficiently be capillary action (see my "conflict" about using Epilame on the balance jewels).  3. Lastly, and here I really wonder about yours and others' experiences: I felt that applying Epliame to the train jewels left them looking hazy (borderline dirty) compared to the (painstakingly achieved) sparkly clean results of my cleaning process. I just can't help but think that the Epilame residuals would mix with the oil and cause more friction/wear. I don't know.    simple: it'll stay there. It won't move any further. That's exactly what is happening if you epilame a cap stone. You end up placing the 9010 right on top of the epilame and the oil will sit nicely on that spot.
    • There are some parts on Ebay for the seiko 6020A, it may just be a waiting game for someone to strip one down, NOS will be more scarce . K would strip your movement down to the module then start looking at other seiko movement to see if that coil is used, then seek out a seiko part dealer. Also Retrowatches youtube owner Mike may give you some advice try him on his site . He also hangs around amateur watchmaking groups.
    • I would agree, in order to work harden something you need to exceed it's yield strength when it moves from the elastic zone to the plastic zone and you get permanent deformation and work hardening which is fairly close to its failure point, relatively speaking and dependent on the material/alloy of course. In theory you can load something constantly within its elastic range and not suffer work hardening issues.
    • Probably easier to get a complete new movement - but CousinsUK list it as discontinued. Maybe someone on here knows a substitute movement ?
    • Any other thoughts on how I can get a replacement coil? Any “hidden” or unknown physical shops (in Australia or elsewhere) that might have them in stock (but not always online)?
×
×
  • Create New...