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Quartz watch timing question

ftwizard

By ftwizard
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

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ftwizard WRT Addict

ftwizard

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I have acquired an oldish Aria quartz watch. It's quite nice, so would like to fix it up to wear. The problem is, it's losing time, about 15 minutes a day.

I've fitted a new battery, not the correct one, it's a 626 instead of a 726, but it got it running.

Any ideas what could cause this?

 

jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
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A loose cannon pinion is a common cause. With a quartz module normally you can't tweak anything else except doing s full strip down and service. It can be more practical to replace it. 

watchweasol Distinguished Member

watchweasol

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Hi  What make is the module, there will be a caliber number and  makers mark .  It would be helpful if you could post a picture of the watch front and movement.   The fact that even with the wrong battery in it runs is good to know. As Yankeedog mentioned the lubricant could be gumming the works up or is of the wrong consistancy, in which case jdm is right strip down and clean and re lube. If the watch is still the same after that its a replacement module.

jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

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13 minutes ago, ftwizard said:

Thanks for the replies.

Any tips on stripping it down? 

I've done dozens of mechanical movements, but never a quartz.

Nothing special really, the rotor is magnetic so keep an eye on it. Do not wash the circuit or the coil. There are few walk through topics on quartz in the dedicated section. 

watchweasol Distinguished Member

watchweasol

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Hi  I was working on a Miyota 2N50 with the same symptoms and after cleaning I found that the small gear driving the hour wheel/cannon was running in a worn bearing and during the cousre of an hour could loose 15 min as the wheel was at times failing to drive. Now two factors determine the next course of action, the module was obsolete so no parts , replacement was the next and a ronda 1032 was purchased as a replacement. Economics are also a factor.

If you wish to clean the movement,  First remove the circuit assy and the coil ,dial and hands. Having removed all the add ons from the movement then immerse in Naptha (lighter fuel) and clean dry on a tissue under a lamp. Once completly dry re assemble and test with a new and correct battery or an external  supply of 1.55v. It would be helpful if we knew what the original module was, what make and calibre.  There is no need to strip the gears out to clean unless you wish to or the state of the module requires it. Be careful some of the plastic units cannot be dismantled only replaced.

 

ftwizard WRT Addict

ftwizard

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The movement is an ETA-ESA 965.102

It seems the problem was the minute hand catching on the raised numerals. I corrected that and it was running fine. Of course I decided to take it apart anyway. Cleaned, reassembled and oiled.........and now it doesn't work at all. The wheels are free and run ok. I definitely didn't damage anything during the work.

I put a meter across the coil and it seems to be getting a pulse that reverses phase each pulse. I tried putting a compass near the coil, thinking it would reverse polarity with each pulse, but it didn't. Not sure if that would work anyway.

Any tips for testing?

watchweasol Distinguished Member

watchweasol

Posted
Posted

Hi  a common problem and with watches running erraticly one of the first thigs to check, loose hands and catching hands.  If you are getting a pulse at the coil , If you can see the rotor is it stepping if so look at the driveto the hands. I use a bespoke tester for quartz units which has its own 1.55v supply and a series of led,s for diagnosis purposes. There are cheap pulse and coil testers out there from India and are internaly rather crude.   Before purchasing this one I made my own unit which is still in use. Look up Mike Catt quartz watch tester which is a self build unit, mine is based on that.

ftwizard WRT Addict

ftwizard

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I’m at a complete loss now. Here’s some readings from the movement.
Pulses every second 0.025v
Coil resistance 230k ohms
Cool to stator 1.7 meg ohms

Still the rotor doesn’t turn. I’m baffled.


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