Jump to content

Interesting Quartz Problem


Recommended Posts

Interesting quartz fault. A friend of my wives asked if I could look at her quartz watch a while back because it had started to loose about 5 mins a day.This watch is a real cheap job with a Miyota movement (I call then scrappers). However when I put a compass next to it the dial moved. A HA 

Now I have read many,many articles that state a quartz watch cannot be magnetised but this one was for sure was. I removed the battery and gave the watch a couple of zaps with my de-magnetiser and when I re-installed battery it burst into life and ran spot on time. Job done I thought.
 
However yesterday the watch reappeared as she said the fault had returned. When I made further enquiries she said the problem appeared when she started wearing a "bio bracelet" which is basically a magnet strap that is supposed to get rid of aches and pains. Use oldens are a laugh we full for this every time, still thats another story.
 
However I have suggested that wearing the band on her other wrist because again it was without doubt the watch on test was magnetised. Perhaps the metal case is getting magnetised.
To be absolutely honest  I just don,t know all I know this one defies the experts who say it can,t happen but de-magnetising it sorts the problem.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you check out the time keeping before you demaged it. It's quite possible that the watch would run slow when on the owners wrist next to the magnetic bracelet but would run correctly when the external magnetic field was removed, without any other intervention.

I used to work in a metal fabrication shop and it was taken as red that you had to remove your watch whenever using the spot welders as they would mess with your time keeping, quartz or mechanical.

If you think about it the heart of a quartz movement is a stepper motor with a magnetized rotor (stator?). It makes sense that the presence of an external magnetic field could influence the operation of the movement.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • At some stage you will have to jump in and have a go. 
    • Ah so its you thats buying up all the DD calibres 🤨.
    • Hi Richard,  I keep buying CAL.59 movements to practice on 🙂 Not started yet though, I'm gathering tools and building my confidence to start.
    • Problem solved. For some bizarre reason, the hook on the wall of this barrel is not properly centered vertically, but is oddly high on the wall, maybe 3/4 up the way up. When replacing the mainspring, this caused the outer coil to be displaced upwards as well such that it protrudes out of the barrel and caused the barrel lid to not sit quite flush to the barrel. Since this is a motor barrel, the lid is actually the first wheel and inner coil tube/hook all in one piece, with no “snap down” action that would have made the problem more immediately obvious. Maybe with an older mainspring the spring’s end hole was enlarged such that this wasn’t an issue, but hard to say how it ever worked otherwise. Replacing the barrel with one from a different model 1900 where the hook was properly vertically centered allowed the lid to sit flush without mainspring interference and the friction problem went away. The bridge was far too thick to be bent (and isn’t), for those of you thinking that was the problem. Placing the removable arbor in the watch without the rest of the barrel proved that the proper end shake was actually there as long as the overall height of the assembled barrel was correct.
    • You are so true on a lot of what you have said. The main reason for changing the mainspring even if the old one is in good order is because it will take out your thinking that the mainspring is contributing to poor power output or fluctuations in amplitude. If a new spring is fitted that box can be crossed off as a potential source of a problem. Most customers are happy to pay the extra £20 for a new mainspring if they are already parting with a couple of hundred pounds for a service. A new spring is an investment for good running for the future.
×
×
  • Create New...