I believe the watch is made by the morath bros of Liverpool. The watch itself is unnamed and only has a number printed onto the movement. Not sure how hard it would be to source a new wheel or clutch.
It has a sub second hand. Thanks for all the thoughts, very interesting.
I hope it doesn't cost too much. Was a recent ebay purchase and the repeater mechanism already needed work.
Sorry so.you mean power is bad on just the basic movement. If so then you need to start breaking that down too.
Removing the balance and the pallet, winding up the watch , what is the winding down like, smooth and fast or does it need help to wind down?
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Many thanks for all the help and apologies for the delay in responding. I managed to get the appropriate sized screwdriver and did as vinn3 suggested to great effect. This allowed me to slide in the stem and lock it. I was now able to move the hands. However...
when i try to wind the stem it immediately springs back the exact amount i have wound.
Also the lower screw in the photo [with the arrow around it] has come loose, I presume i over did it when i opened it previously and have now dislodged the connecting part.
If anyone has any suggestions I'd love your feedback, as a novice i do not wish to damage this watch so if you think it best to begin on a lesser models and leave this to the pros i would happily hear this too.
If it were a construction site I'd be fired. An 8-hour day and one successful joint to show for it. I had to tweak the jig and lots of trial and error before I got my tools to behave. Having that behind me, the rest of the drawers will take far less time.
So my 14 drawers will be box jointed just like this.
Thanks again, VWatchie. I think I understand now. 9501 and Molykote DX are for high friction areas. The inside of the barrel is certainly high friction for automatics; but we're not trying to mitigate friction as much as we're trying to allow the main spring freedom to slide so it doesn't score or foul the internal wall of the barrel. Yes?