Jump to content

Newbie from South Wales, UK


deaconj999

Recommended Posts

The photo is the barrel arbor, You need to look for a spring with those dimensions. One other thing that might come in handy when it comes to mainsprings. 1 third of the barrel for the spring, 1 third for the arbor and 1 third of free space. That is a rough guide; you don’t want a spring to long. As you are in the UK. Look at the top of this forum and you will see Resources, go to Parts and Tool suppliers and click on the Cousins UK, find watch mainsprings and see what comes up to match the spring you want. If your barrel has the type of fitting in the photo you should be OK because that is the most common type, if it is different could you post a photo of it.

ElectaMainspring.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, oldhippy said:

The photo is the barrel arbor, You need to look for a spring with those dimensions. One other thing that might come in handy when it comes to mainsprings. 1 third of the barrel for the spring, 1 third for the arbor and 1 third of free space. That is a rough guide; you don’t want a spring to long. As you are in the UK. Look at the top of this forum and you will see Resources, go to Parts and Tool suppliers and click on the Cousins UK, find watch mainsprings and see what comes up to match the spring you want. If your barrel has the type of fitting in the photo you should be OK because that is the most common type, if it is different could you post a photo of it.

ElectaMainspring.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm guessing, as these are all the parts I have for the barrel there is more than the spring missing. I will layout the parts of the watch later in the hope that we can identify if the watch is worth putting back together. So far I have found it was in a CH (Charles Horner) case which is assay stamped and the seller was R.Richardson Middlesborough Serial # 21769. Circa 1897!

It's definitely not a Fusee or one of the American makers, so the UK maker remains a mystery.

Any help would be great. As I have already cleaned the solid silver case.

20190817_093522.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yes, I was referring to the (jewelled) gear train with HP (most of the time, I use 1300, but when Rolex says 1000, I'll use 1000).
    • did I miss the update of the message of something changing?      
    • I suppose it would depend upon what your lubricating with those? for instance what does the manufacturer say about those lubricants? I have a PDF from the manufacture and a rather peculiar statement found on the bottom of the chart. my suspicion is the reason the recommending would be without epilam the HP oils like the spread except when they're in Ruby jewel's with steel pivots. tableEN lubrication 2020.pdf
    • These types of hairsprings become weak with age and very fragile. Which I expect it is that giving you trouble, and that wheel is not the correct one, if it were not bent I don't think the movement would run as the teeth are not the correct height. The problem you have is price which depends on you. It can be repaired but is it worth it to you, because there is little value in the clock. A wheel can be made and hairspring replaced. Or hang on to it and keep looking on ebay which is your best bet for replacement parts or even a complete movement but it will be like finding a needle in a haystack. 
    • I did that also for a few movements - well, mainly in/around the train jewels. I made big efforts to epilame the mainplate WITHOUT getting Epilame into the Pallet fork jewels (where it's not supposed to be, right?). I made litte barriers with Rodico around that jewel and used drops from a syringe to apply on the rest.  However, I've now stopped doing this. For three reasons: 1. It's a hassle and consumes more of this liquid gold. 2. I didn't see the need when using HP1000/HP1300 lubricants and grease for most part. The two places where I'd use 9010 (i.e. escape wheel and balance) receive Epilame in specific places... or the cap-jewel-setting of the balance suspends the oil sufficiently be capillary action (see my "conflict" about using Epilame on the balance jewels).  3. Lastly, and here I really wonder about yours and others' experiences: I felt that applying Epliame to the train jewels left them looking hazy (borderline dirty) compared to the (painstakingly achieved) sparkly clean results of my cleaning process. I just can't help but think that the Epilame residuals would mix with the oil and cause more friction/wear. I don't know.    simple: it'll stay there. It won't move any further. That's exactly what is happening if you epilame a cap stone. You end up placing the 9010 right on top of the epilame and the oil will sit nicely on that spot.
×
×
  • Create New...