Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

anybody know where i can obtain blue or black hands for a waltham pocket watch 1.90 x 1.18 at a reasonable price.tried Cousins but they dont seem to have this size and although there seems to be plenty on E-bay they are mostly from the USA with ridiculous postage charges.thanks B.

Posted

sorry to tell you but you cant buy these hands from suppliers. Ebay is the way to go but try searching based on movement size instead of hole size you will get more results. plus shipping should not be too much since most sellers participate in the global shipping program which allows you to ship an item to any country outside the US for the same cost as within. The items gets shipped to an exchange center in Kentucky where they ship the item to the destination country, its great because the exchange gives you a separate tracking number once it leaves their warehouse, and the shipping time is pretty much the same. I however may have some hands, i can list them on ebay for only the postage charge and this way ill ship using the GSP, which probably be like $7. what is the size of the movement? If i dont have them i can send a link to some ebay listings

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, saswatch88 said:

sorry to tell you but you cant buy these hands from suppliers. Ebay is the way to go but try searching based on movement size instead of hole size you will get more results. plus shipping should not be too much since most sellers participate in the global shipping program which allows you to ship an item to any country outside the US for the same cost as within. The items gets shipped to an exchange center in Kentucky where they ship the item to the destination country, its great because the exchange gives you a separate tracking number once it leaves their warehouse, and the shipping time is pretty much the same. I however may have some hands, i can list them on ebay for only the postage charge and this way ill ship using the GSP, which probably be like $7. what is the size of the movement? If i dont have them i can send a link to some ebay listings

not sure but is a traveler and i believe a 16s.the dial is 42-43mm.

Posted

That should be either a model 1908 or 1899. There are few differences between them, and I'd guess that the hands are the same. Very common movement. I believe the Traveler, mostly a gilt finished movement, was made for export, with most being sold in Britain. Good luck.

 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I just thought of the fact that I may have seen "Traveler" marked on 1888 models as well. And I just verified this in "The Complete Guide to Pocket Watches".  If yours is an '88 model, I hope you have a case for it. Like the '72 model Waltham, they take a special case.

If you can provide an image, or at least the serial number, from the movement, the model can be determined. Cheers.

 

Edited by MrRoundel
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

yes get the serial number and look it up on pocketwatchdatabase.com. its not always accurate but it will let you know the model, size, and will show images of the movement and cases as well. i have the official waltham pocket watch ID and price guide from 1976, which is 100% accurate. so get that serial # and post it

Edited by saswatch88
Posted
5 minutes ago, saswatch88 said:

yes get the serial number and look it up on pocketwatchdatabase.com. its not always accurate but it will let you know the model, size, and will show images of the movement and cases as well. i have the official waltham pocket watch ID and price guide from 1976, which is 100% accurate. so get that serial # and post it

Yes looked it up. It's a 1908 movement 

 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
Posted
8 minutes ago, saswatch88 said:

Thanks. Will give it a go. B

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks for this post MikePilk, I just came across a similar problem with an Omega 1022.  The problem I had was the seconds pinion spring was bent out of shape and did not even engage with the wheel properly, so the seconds hand was not moving at all. (no power loss though :) I removed the automatic module so I could access the spring and work on it. Once I bent it back close to the right shape, I experienced the same problem you reported about power loss.  Many tweaks later, and the seconds hand is moving properly again, with amplitude back to good numbers again. Cheers
    • After cleaning up the pivots, I made bushes on the lathe. At this point I've pressed in 6 bushes (3 sets) and the wheels turn smooth. What I can also tell you, is that I'm not looking forward to final assembly. Getting the pivots aligned seems to get exponentially more difficult with each wheel that is added.
    • Islands are interesting places to live depending upon their size and other factors. This is a bigger island and it has a bridge to get there at least on one end. It's also big enough that you don't have to go someplace else to get things typically. It can be a problem if you get a job in Seattle though. Yes I've known of people who commuted from the island to Seattle for a job and I don't quite remember how many hours it took but it took a long time. So basically islands are nice if you don't have to leave very often.
    • Thanks @JohnR725! Everything you say makes a lot of sense and is encouraging to read.
    • isn't it nice to have a decent case open or when the case doesn't want to be opened? In the case of a Rolex watch that supposed to pass specific water resistant testing you probably do need to tighten the back down. But they shouldn't be tightened so much that they risk stripping the threads out. Then the other problem that comes up is the gaskets can start to disintegrate and then getting the back off can be quite a challenge unless you have a really good tool and perhaps some penetrating oil to loosen things up. Yes really nice case marking. When I was in school we were taught to mark the cases and  the American watch and clockmakers Institute even had a? So if you joined at one time they would give you an identification number. They were explaining or giving an example of if the watches ever found in you have a unique number they can perhaps figure out the history of the watch or identify the body it's attached to for instance not that that probably comes up that often. So you got a unique number and even made a special metal stamp that you can purchase. It wasn't a super big aggressive stamp but still it left a mark in the back of the case. Then I heard from people at work on Rolex watches they were using a felt pen indelible but later on they decided that was bad because apparently the ink could release  chemicals although it seems like once it's dry that shouldn't be an issue. Then of course today was nice is you can keep computer records sealed have to mark anything at all I personally find it's best to leave no reference behind that you were even there. Especially when you have a beautiful watch that has no markings at all and now it has your scribbling all over it not good typically if there is a typical and watch repair?  a lot of minor repairs you don't need to do a complete servicing. But beyond a certain point you're going to have to take apart a lot of stuff you're going to disrupt the lubrication even if it looks perfect right now and yes you might as well just go ahead the service the whole thing. also in a watch like this where a lot of things seem to be going on the complete service would be better then you'll know exactly where you stand versus dealing with unknown mysteries for prior repair.
×
×
  • Create New...