Jump to content

Does this look sluggish?


Recommended Posts

I pulled an old watch out of the drawer recently. I know it was a non runner when I acquired it a few years back and that after I stripped, cleaned, oiled and reassembled it, it did run. After that I just put it away and forgot about it. When I came across it I thought I might like to put a strap on it and wear it. It still runs but is losing about 2-3 minutes a day, and to me the balance doesn’t look to be swinging very enthusiastically. I don’t honestly remember if that’s why I left it in the drawer or not. Think I’ll just take it apart anyway and go through it again. Just wondered if anyone thinks it does look like it’s a bit sluggish, it’s fully wound.

@Squiffything What do you think of the pictures?:thumbsu:

60E2F516-F1C2-41F6-B965-94DCD7CEDE2D.thumb.jpeg.61bcbe2db0d7994349a704a16ff46d4f.jpeg8A510B94-8DF6-4CC6-9345-38A69CEFC93E.thumb.jpeg.6911297546a8f9981fa43ab2bedc2977.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks sluggish. If you didn't replace the mainspring when you took it apart, I'd replace it. When did you last give it an overhaul? It is probably dry and running with considerable drag on the drive train. Also, It looks like the entry stroke of the pallet is occuring a little fast, so the beat is probably off.  Balance wheel looks a tiny bit wobbly. Give it an overhaul, replace mainspring, and put it on a time grapher to correct the beat error--that should improve things dramatically.

J

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Davey  If you have a time grapher put it on that and check the beat error and amplitude. If not remove balance and check the action of the pallet is it crisp when moved  banking pin to pin, also you can remove the esc wheel and put  a little power on the   watch the wheels run down there should be a bit of backrun as the power runs out.   If you have no timegrapher  have a look at Watch-O Scope the lite version is free to use but you need to build a small amp there  are diagrams on the site. I use it in conjunction with the Horotec unit to double check.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve stripped it down to this point and noticed that either the cap jewel is missing or doesn’t have/need one. Can anyone confirm for me either way. 

AF3DE567-0CA1-453A-B78B-57216CA1070F.thumb.jpeg.971ac5f5eff219289432df1b938a1bc0.jpeg

This is the wheel that sits in it.

C4AA2697-D68F-445F-B37D-CFD1478D2132.thumb.jpeg.a0f888df6ec0e4b5762d4ec95f0f53bf.jpeg

What calibre movement is it, in case I need spares.

6BA80C9F-52BE-47D6-B2B6-926BE2531F3B.thumb.jpeg.d32d3f66f850cac8f97ce1db7a2c5737.jpeg

Thanks for any help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi    Dave Its Forster 187  Have a look at Ranfft forster 187.    By the look of the recess and screw hole in the plate I would say it needs the endstone although on Ranfft site the Forster 189 front plate shows otherwise but there is no recess in the plate go with plan A 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tried to find an end stone from another old watch. But looking at the jewel itself it has an oil sink, so I’m still not certain it should have an end stone fitted?  While I was on I thought I would check and clean the balance jewels. The upper one went ok but the end stone from the lower one has taken flight.  Most annoyed!  Apart from trying to find another movement, are endstones generic, just different sizes? I’ve measured the upper stone as best as I can and think it’s 1.10mm. Cousins sell an assortment that would last a lifetime. Think I might find one to fit among this?

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/jewel-holes-end-stones

Thanks all for any help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I'm going for an AS movement - the general layout, screw/jewel positions are similar.  
    • I haven't yet but I will take it out tonight! Thank you. Will post pics of dial side tonight too.
    • Did you have a look under the ballance? Often the movement maker/number is hidden there.
    • I wonder if 9415 is based on a base oil of 941? it's interesting what questions bring and the tech sheet answers it's the viscosity of the base oil. Then the impact? There is something we're missing here for that which would have a big influence on all of the house image above is 9514 image below is 941.then always interesting when specifications do not exactly agree? They ledge above for 941 indicates 110 viscosity but the image off the spec sheet is slightly less but I guess close enough   my understanding of the concern of too much 9415 is as we know the loss of amplitude. But why do we have a loss of amplitude? So impact it's basically oil should be very slippery. But what about non-impact? Like the edges of the escape wheel? Another thing that comes to play here is the shape of the escape wheel itself. Notice on the last a more vintage escape wheel with just a flat surface whereas the modern escape wheels usually made out of steel versus grass much much thinner their contact areas greatly been reduced and sometimes I think there even slightly curved. So is it conceivable at everything that isn't a flat surface on impact is going to be sticky? So this is where the shape of the escape wheel will have a big impact literally on how slippery things are. Oh and for all of you obsessed with worrying about too much 9415 I never worry about it because typically I'm doing pocket watches and it doesn't seem to be an issue at all. on the other hand I'm much more concerned about a watch that keeps time for 24 hours as opposed to the concern of the group of keeping amplitude for 24 hours. Then yes some pocket watches have steel escape wheels and do look like the escape wheel on the right.   
    • your balance wheel looks interesting in the watch and because it's at an angle it's changing things a little bit. in other words they hairspring is not centered between the regulator pin in the boot and I also noticed your terminal curve is lacking apparently by design? Because if you look in the second image you'll notice yes there's a terminal curve but not as aggressive a one as you normally see on watches at least most watches.   then in all of your images it looks like the boot isn't quite back where it's supposed to be? out of curiosity how did you remove your balance complete and clear the regulator pin? then just in case you weren't aware it rotates out of the way so you can remove the balance complete without bending the pin. Then it's rotated back exactly 90° and yours looks like it's off by just a little bit in the original image and I'm assuming that you just been the pin out of the way? it's always interesting in horology is the variations in the things. Like the image I have above does have a terminal curve but not the most aggressive and yours is even less but that is the way the watch was made. Then the spacing between the regulator pin in the boot should be relatively small basically if you had two pieces of the thickness of your hairspring that's how much space should be there like in this image. But oftentimes watch manufacturers do not necessarily follow the rules  
×
×
  • Create New...