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Posted
16 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

If a link to the datasheet is already not provided on this forum, I am sure our helpful member watchweasol will soon post the link here.

 

 

Its also about winder efficiency  and wear protection. 

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Nucejoe said:

Its also about winder efficiency  and wear protection. 

The movement https://youtu.be/dEqgYM3tuzM I bought to replace the new oscillating weight. It has the same problem as mine. The ball bearing are with defect (hence the vertical movement). Either it happened during the shipment to here or it was like this. This experience with the oscillating weight has been a very frustrating thing for me. The next watch I buy will probably just be a manual not an automatic.


 

 

Edited by Genti
Posted
18 hours ago, jdm said:

Yes, remove the rotor and soak it in alcohol.

@jdm is acetone okay as a substitute for alcohol. In the times of this coronavirus alcohol is not easily accessible haha.

Posted

Just got notice on my original thread got busy! Great folks here have already mentioned what you need to do, however I'm just going to re-mention my original post.

I used very little, I mean a micro-dot. on the head of a pin to lube my bearing with the 10W synthetic oil. As mentioned regular silicone grease is way too thick. I used my loupe and it appeared that I only just wet the race and balls.

Good to tighten the center screw firmly, but don't over do it. Once it's snug/tight more tightening does nothing for or to the bearing itself. You cant 'fix' a loose bearing with the screw.

MAKE SURE you index the weight with the proper alignment method show in the manuals while you are re-assembling. If you don't it will NOT wind properly and you will have very poor mainspring/running performance.

Even with a small amount of oil and proper weight alignment during re-assembly my watch functions properly now. To my rotor fix is still working... sure beats the high cost of a replacement!

Good luck to you.

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Posted
On 3/15/2020 at 6:13 PM, George19 said:

Just got notice on my original thread got busy! Great folks here have already mentioned what you need to do, however I'm just going to re-mention my original post.

I used very little, I mean a micro-dot. on the head of a pin to lube my bearing with the 10W synthetic oil. As mentioned regular silicone grease is way too thick. I used my loupe and it appeared that I only just wet the race and balls.

Good to tighten the center screw firmly, but don't over do it. Once it's snug/tight more tightening does nothing for or to the bearing itself. You cant 'fix' a loose bearing with the screw.

MAKE SURE you index the weight with the proper alignment method show in the manuals while you are re-assembling. If you don't it will NOT wind properly and you will have very poor mainspring/running performance.

Even with a small amount of oil and proper weight alignment during re-assembly my watch functions properly now. To my rotor fix is still working... sure beats the high cost of a replacement!

Good luck to you.

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Thank you George19,

Good to hear that your skx is doing fine still. I did read the manuals and I sure did check for the proper alignment. Thanks!
For the oil the 10W is a semi-synthetic oil as I know by working at my fathers auto-parts shop when I was younger, however I could use 5W30 or 0W30 which is fully synthetic and it's even thinner than any 10W. For now I just cleaned the grease and didn't lubricate at all. It's working fine and keeping time as it was(also the noise seems to have become a bit less or maybe it's just me haha). I decided to leave it like it is for now.

Thank you all guys.

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