Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi All

I'm still learning and still asking lots of questions.  Thanks for all the help.

This was advertised as a non-runner but I found a dial foot screw loose under the escape wheel.  So far so good.  Now, it appears that a screw or post is sheared (in yellow) off this part.  I believe it's part of the date quick set.  It appears that the case pusher impacts the red part which causes the blue part to advance the date.  I think that the bar spring should be under what ever is missing at the yellow hole.  Do I have this correct?  What are the chances of buying a new blue part???

IMG_3624.thumb.JPG.e28f49ce724e7c8c7cc67790975dde6b.JPGIMG_3623_LI.thumb.jpg.748b7d47ba0ab4b340ca3f603138c721.jpg

Thank you

Charlie

 

 

Posted

Hey Charlie, Is the inside of that hole threaded? It doesn't appear to link it to anything so I think you are right. it is a post that pushes. As for buying that part... we aren't even sure what kind of movement it is, you might have to buy a whole 'nother watch to get it. or you could attempt to fabricate a new post. It has been my experience that sewing needles are made from reasonably good steel are fairly rigid and come in a variety of diameters.

Posted
18 minutes ago, yankeedog said:

Hey Charlie, Is the inside of that hole threaded? It doesn't appear to link it to anything so I think you are right. it is a post that pushes. As for buying that part... we aren't even sure what kind of movement it is, you might have to buy a whole 'nother watch to get it. or you could attempt to fabricate a new post. It has been my experience that sewing needles are made from reasonably good steel are fairly rigid and come in a variety of diameters.

Thanks for your help.  Using a 10x, I can't tell whether it's threaded.  It's an Orient H9 movement and I can't find anything at Borel concerning it.  Tapping in a needle is a good idea. Thankfully, I believe the watch will work without this part.

Posted

yes if it it date related it should still tell time. you probably could delete those parts, and leave date ring in place.it would just be non functional. 

  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

I have no idea what an H9 Orient mechanism is, however Ranfft lists a bunch of automatic movements, and if you look at the image of the 46491 below you will see what appears to be your part (top left above the 20 19 18 date markers). It seems to show a pin or floating rivet, probably connecting the two parts you show above.

 

Orient_46941-2.jpg

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Orient_46941

I could of course be wrong.

 

Edited by AndyHull
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Well, my fundamental stance is that I want to go in and out without leaving any trace other than a shining, perfectly running movement. So, no scratchings on the inside of the case back lid, no marred screws, no debris, no fingerprints, and so on. That is, my goal is to make it impossible for the FBI to track me down. As a professional, I suppose you might want to keep track of returning watches, but as @JohnR725 mentioned, we can keep detailed computer records without marking the watch at all. That may not be true for every watch, but luxury and COSC-certified movements do have unique numbers. John also says it’s best to leave no sign you were ever there, and I couldn't agree more. Now, suppose the Sea-Dweller I'm working on is one day scrapped, and you want to sell the case-back separately (perhaps the case was destroyed in a plane crash). Then the scribbles on the inside no longer reflect the current movement inside the case. Also, the engraving will likely halve the market value of the case back. It had been "sleeping" for about a week and a half. Yes, the "debris/old lubricant" theory is my hypothesis as well! It will be interesting to see what I find once I have time to start disassembling the movement.
    • I've repaired a few of these, having some success with stripping and cleaning the mechanism.  They are so cheap though, its hardly worth the effort in many cases.
    • Get well soon Old Hippy, torn muscles.,  not good
    • Id love to see how he has the output shaft mounted to this setup, as I have the same rotary stage and stepper in my build.
    • If you see at least one thread protruding, or even a half, then you may have a chance using this "tool", but don't squeeze hard. Lot's of patience, and if you notice any signs of loctite or other adhesives, then apply several drops of acetone on top of broken stem. Use heat (hair dryer) also. You should be able gradually turn it counterclockwise, just like i did on this broken Timex stem, which was glued with something like nail hardener. Then you can use an extender to save your broken stem. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/513DVvkfW5L.__AC_SX300_SY300_QL70_ML2_.jpg   You can also try cutting a small grove / slot on top of the broken stem to use 0.7mm flat screwdriver.   Depending on the Crown material and Stem material, you can try dissolving the stem. 
×
×
  • Create New...