Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I purchased a used Seiko Sportura today and after cleaning the bracelet in ultrasonic one of the  pins was loose.  

If I push it in it just slip out the other side. But the one on the opposite end is good and tight.  Unlike the lug pins which have a extra clip that fits into one end , thins one does not.

So how is it held in place?  I was thinking maybe using a super glue or epoxy.

Any help is appreciated.

 

 

 

 

 

 

DSC00415.JPG

DSC00416.JPG

DSC00417.JPG

Posted

Roll pins....Just got a new turtle with those (Half price cuz somebody didn't like the way the dial lined up.  I thought they were supposed to be that way!)

Hold the larger end in place with whatever fits and make certain the roll pin is snug and all the way down.  I pushed the keeper home with smaller tweezers and it's holding fine.

Posted
16 minutes ago, nichod said:

Roll pins....Just got a new turtle with those (Half price cuz somebody didn't like the way the dial lined up.  I thought they were supposed to be that way!)

Hold the larger end in place with whatever fits and make certain the roll pin is snug and all the way down.  I pushed the keeper home with smaller tweezers and it's holding fine.

thanks but, I was referring to the pin in the first photo.  There is no keeper on the other end so it just pushes through.  

 

Posted

Oh.  Sorry.  I wondered with the pic there and all.....   I just tested my new one and it is obviously spring loaded at the case.  Could it have had retainers on both ends?

Interesting watch.  Someone has the answer!

Posted
9 hours ago, nichod said:

Oh.  Sorry.  I wondered with the pic there and all.....   I just tested my new one and it is obviously spring loaded at the case.  Could it have had retainers on both ends?

Interesting watch.  Someone has the answer!

using the other side as an example I do no see a keeper.  so I have to think the pin is press fitted. there is some pitting to the metal on the pin so perhaps that is the issue.  Will keep search the net to see if anyone was posted similar issue.

Posted

got it!  after looking at the links again I noticed that the center link had one hole larger than the other.  The reason for this has to be that it requires a friction tube to hold the pin in place just as it does at the lug ends of the bands.  So where did the missing friction tube go?

When I first saw the watch, the band was missing one push pin and another pin was half way out.  The most likely conclusion than that was caused by the everyday wear and tear to the band.  So the missing friction tube was either knocked out when the original owner tried to size it to fit or it broke into bits and slowly fell out.  No matter how it happened, I will make up a friction tube from a spring bar.

 

DSC00418.JPG

Posted

Those new adjusters are driving wearers crazy from the reviews I read.  One guy had spent 60 dollars at three shops getting his new SRP sized and it was still falling apart!

Mine is fine so far but I suspect adjustments will be needed down the road.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If a runner, I usually let the movement run in naphta for a minute, some movements need a bit of encouragement to run in liquids, so a quick dip of the movement in naphta then remove and encourage the oscilator with puffer, repeat several soaks.  Or if you don't want to soak or dip the movement in cleaning solution ,   keep putting naphta on jewel holes as the movement runs on desk. A pre-clean of some sort is helps.  Avoid lifting out the fork with tweezers.  Try blowing fork pivot out  with strong puff of air from jewels holes back side. Good luck .      
    • 60! Wow, that's a lot. Can't say I understand the problem because disassembly is usually quite uneventful, except for springs launching into space. Most people break pivots during assembly. I use a homemade brass pry tool to loosen parts. It's just a short length of hard brass wire sharpened to a chisel point. Don't pry at just one point and crowbar it out. Pry at the notch and when a crack opens up, slip the pry tool in and loosen it at a few more points until the bridge is free.
    • Beginner here. Of about 60 watches I’ve serviced and repaired, I’ve broken a pallet pivot on three, always during disassembly, and usually when the old oil has transformed to glue. Each watch was Swiss, in case that makes a difference. Here’s what happened in each case: - unscrewed the pallet bridge or cock - gently inserted a screwdriver in the  slot under the pallet bridge or cock - gently but firmly rotated the screwdriver, avoiding a forwards force on the screwdriver. If alignment pins stick, the cam action is alternated back and forth between back corners of the plate. - heard a small but horrible click. Is there a special tool or technique for safely lifting the pallet bridge? Should everything be soaked in naphtha before beginning disassembly if there’s any sign of old oil gluing parts together? Thanks! Rob
    • You shared this test with me a few months back on a Hamilton project and so I had checked this watch to find the pins were still equally spaced. Their screw slots were undamaged and very tight hard to move so maybe no one has messed with them before. I can't work on it much today but I did measure the fork slot again and it seems like 0.44 is the right size. I measure the jewel that had been installed at just 0.42. would an undersized too narrow impulse jewel impact the impulse drastically? I ask because I have had it at a state where flipping the fork manually with a tool would unlock some of the time, but the balance was never capable of unlocking.
    • This was what I was afraid of. The movement is not one of the generic black square modules. Remove the movement from the clock and try prying it open very carefully, without breaking the plastic tabs. The plastic might be brittle from age. Clean the wheels and check the battery contacts for corrosion. Check the PCB for bad solder joints. Take plenty of photos along the way.
×
×
  • Create New...