Jump to content

Swiss Emperor Watch - Any Good?


Recommended Posts

Looks like the correct parts to me Roberto, but I could be wrong. Remember you will probably have to do a bit of stem fitting to get it to the correct length. It will be a bit more of a fiddle with it being a split stem.

http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/page/index.html/_/watch-repair-information/fitting-a-new-watch-stem-r26

I hope it is correct. Sent him the parts sheet to confirm. Don't forget I have the female part/crown ready and waiting.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

looks good Roberto , you already have the female part with the crown don't you ?, always a handy spare as the female part seems hard to find these days

Yes I do. Its useful to have that extension juuuuuust in case although I test fitted it and the crown does fit the case tube.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hope females are not that scarce and to have them always ready and waiting is like a dream come true....errr wait, are we talking about...What? :D

Don't worry ro63rto, it will come out perfect just make sure you don't rush the stem fitting and if in doubt try it again and again. I almost had to discard my first one for not screwing it tight to the crown when I first measured it.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hope females are not that scarce and to have them always ready and waiting is like a dream come true....errr wait, are we talking about...What? :D

Don't worry ro63rto, it will come out perfect just make sure you don't rush the stem fitting and if in doubt try it again and again. I almost had to discard my first one for not screwing it tight to the crown when I first measured it.

Cheers,

Bob

[emoji1]

Hopefully no adjustment necessary. I have the crown with the female part already and it should just click onto the male part coming from Italy (speaking Italian comes in handy sometimes)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent ro63rto, I was a little confused with all the female talk :) You are almost done then and we will be able to enjoy a picture of your efforts' final product. Isn't it something?! You will be wearing a watch serviced and repaired by you, on your wrist pretty soon!

 

Saluti,

 

Bob

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Would it be OK to put a slight amount of thread locker (locktite 222, NOT superglue) in the joint? Just a thought.

No. But its not the joint between the two parts that is the problem.

It all comes out from the movement.

I think the previous owner must have unscrewed it too many turns. Looks like a dial off to see whats come loose. [emoji35]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • So I found what I believe is the setting lever screw! Am I right in thinking the screw next to the click is the correct one for the setting lever? However if it is, it doesn't fit in the hole which I believe is for it! I can get the lever to sit nicely on the stem and line up with a hole, but the screw only goes as far as the shoulder and stops. It's as though the hole is too small! The dial side has been disassembled by the way, the other wheels are in my tray
    • When faced with say a pocket watch bridge which is cracked, silver soldering to repair is often the only option (hopefully someone wasn't there before hand with soft solder). I can generally do this succesfully and tidily with a small torch and miniscule pieces of silver solder, but on parts which were mercury amalgam gilded the heat can have have a deleterious effect on the finish.   I keep wondering if there's a good way to refinish these - and despite having the needful items would rather avoid using the mercury process.   In the past for electronic work I've gold plated PCBs but this involved gold potassium cyanide solution, which also doesn't realy belong at home. I've read that there are now safer alternatives but couldn't find more detail (and importantly how similar are the results to amalgam gilding, since I wouldn't want to refinish the whole watch). Pointers would be very welcome (and yes, I know solutions containing gold won't be cheap!) Alan
    • The first one is an Unruh max stake for pushing out staffs
    • Ok so with the great answers for my previous question may I ask what these two attachments are used for. The one with the red knob is I assume used for hand setting the seconds hand? Jon      
    • According to Cousins site I need to look at document G22 as I think I need an ATGB at 304 but I cant find this size in G22 doc. The last thing I want to do is order the wrong one😳  Unless I cant see the wood for the trees 😆 I could be looking at the wrong style, I assume its classed as Round plastic Armed  https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/wide-ring-gold-atgb
×
×
  • Create New...