Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi All

I'm a beginner.  What tool is required to remove this C ring on a Seiko 6119?  It's base sits below the silver ring with red arrow.  

Thank you

IMG_3427_LI (2).jpg

IMG_3426.JPG

Posted

Problem is that it is upside down. Someone has put it upside down. Probably making the daydisc stiff? A small screwdriver to pry it of is the best. Take care so you don't slip. There can be marks but won't be seen once the dial is there. It's easier to remove if it the right way up. 

Posted

Upside down!  Well that would explain my difficulty.  I can't get a 0.6mm screwdriver or hand pullers under it.  

Posted

Do you see the 8 grooves indented into the silver ring? Those didn't come with the watch originally but have been left as the result of someone using the silver ring as a pivot point to pry upward on the clip before. You obviously aren't going to hurt the ring now so place you fine point screwdriver in each of those indentations in turn and lever the clip upward by going around the ring. I would suggest that you do this while the movement is in a 1 gallon clear baggie as it will help to contain the clip should it come flying off and take wings.

As rogart63 has already noted, the wounded silver ring will be hidden anyhow once the dial is in place.

Posted

Take a screwdriver that's slightly too large for the gap in the C. Place it in the gap and twist. The screwdriver will force the gap apart and the clip will
lift slightly. You will then be able to pop another screwdriver under the clip and lift it off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
2 hours ago, TexasDon said:

Do you see the 8 grooves indented into the silver ring? Those didn't come with the watch originally but have been left as the result of someone using the silver ring as a pivot point to pry upward on the clip before. You obviously aren't going to hurt the ring now so place you fine point screwdriver in each of those indentations in turn and lever the clip upward by going around the ring. I would suggest that you do this while the movement is in a 1 gallon clear baggie as it will help to contain the clip should it come flying off and take wings.

As rogart63 has already noted, the wounded silver ring will be hidden anyhow once the dial is in place.

Success!  I sharpened my smallest screwdriver and was able to pry it out as you recommended.  Thanks for the plastic bag reminder.  There's a least a dozen lost parts living in my workshop.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 minute ago, tritto said:

Take a screwdriver that's slightly too large for the gap in the C. Place it in the gap and twist. The screwdriver will force the gap apart and the clip will
lift slightly. You will then be able to pop another screwdriver under the clip and lift it off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks.  I did look at that but the gap is wider than any screwdriver I have.

Posted

The 

4 hours ago, TexasDon said:

Do you see the 8 grooves indented into the silver ring? Those didn't come with the watch originally but have been left as the result of someone using the silver ring as a pivot point to pry upward on the clip before. You obviously aren't going to hurt the ring now so place you fine point screwdriver in each of those indentations in turn and lever the clip upward by going around the ring. I would suggest that you do this while the movement is in a 1 gallon clear baggie as it will help to contain the clip should it come flying off and take wings.

As rogart63 has already noted, the wounded silver ring will be hidden anyhow once the dial is in place.

They should be there to hold the daydisc to the star mechanism. They are there on all Seiko daydiscs. If the star thing is loose you could tap them very lighly with a small screwdriver. 

 



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If the weight was worn how does the post look as normally you'd have to replace both. There should be no real resistance at the end and just be able to keep on winding. Did you insert both springs the same and is the idler gear OK.
    • Assembled and running well, I'm asking after the fact. I'm waiting on a new oscillating weight as this one was worn (they have a reputation for it apparently, no bearings). So I've been winding it by hand, but meeting quite a bit of resistance at the end, more than I think an automatic weight will overcome. It's not quite as sudden as a manual mechanism, but there's very little in it, certainly enough that I would be concerned about breaking something if I continued.
    • Remove the cannon pinion from the dial side first. The "clip" you describe is sort of a metal tab some American companies designed their cannon pinions with in order to make it easier to tighten friction. If that is the problem, the solution is as simple as gently squeezing the tab with tweezers to bend it ever so slightly inward, while supporting the inside of the cannon pinion if possible (it may be harder to support inside since it does not have an open tip as a hollow tube) The cannon pinion should just pull straight off of the arbor on the dial side if you pull it straight up with tweezers. There's no jewel in danger of breaking and the arbor is thick so there isn't much risk of breaking the arbor. But when you are describing that the center wheel's pinion is not turning the arbor, is the pinion firmly attached to the center wheel? If you remove the center wheel and hold onto the rim of the wheel, does the pinion turn independently of the rest of the wheel? It should not.  I'm not sure if this was the case on older Waltham, but the pinion may be threaded onto the center wheel arbor and they are often loose. This was a safety mechanism for a broken mainspring and may just need to be tightened back down. I can't remember for sure, but these might be a reverse (left) thread instead of normal right. And does the entire arbor turn independently of the wheel? Also should not.
    • You may get some extra friction on the barrel lid so may not slip as easy but I wouldn't think it's a problem. My suggestion would be to finish the assembly and see how it runs.
    • I have a Waltham key-wound pocket watch, small seconds: 20640806 on base plate & 640 80 6 on top plate. The pinion shown in the photo of the rear of the top plate - driven by the barrel - is loose & doesn't turn the main (first ?) wheel on the same arbour. The other photo shows the arbour on the dial side which appears to have a clip of some sort around it. I'd be grateful for advice as to how to proceed to rectify this problem.
×
×
  • Create New...