Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

A nice find in the wild

Recommended Posts

While out shopping last week, I stopped in at my local Goodwill Industries store and browsed their watches. For non-US residents, Goodwill is a business that provides work training and employment for handicapped individuals. They fund a lot of their programs by accepting donations of everything from clothing to furniture to jewelry and then selling it in one of their stores. It's a great place to pick up an odd bargain plus, it helps the community.

I was delighted to spot a Seiko perpetual date 8F32-0019 on display. It was offered for $21 as it wasn't working. It hasn't been two weeks since I viewed Mark's excellent YouTube video about how to change the battery in one of these watches, then reprogram it. I bought it and brought it home. To begin with, this particular example was manufactured in May, 1998 which places it near the end of the product cycle. That caliber has been discontinued for some time now. This particular watch was a game premium at the Big XII football championship which was sponsored by Dr. Pepper, a soft drink brand. They were given to each team member, coaching staff, trainers, important alumni, etc. What makes this one unique is that it was never worn. That's right! Whomever receive it placed it on a shelf in the closet where the battery (10 year battery life on this model) died and the watch lost its program. 

It was donated recently to Goodwill where I found it. I replaced the CR2014 coin cell battery, then reprogrammed it according to Mark's instructions. Thank you Mark. The inside of the watch was basically untouched. At some point, the company that supplied the watches to Dr. Pepper removed the original dial and replaced it with the commemorative one it now sports. The only other issue noted was the date changed at 9:30 each evening instead of midnight. I suspect that whomever replaced the dial didn't bother to properly set the hands when reinstalling them. Additionally, the sweep second hand was off by half the width of 1 second. I corrected those by removing and properly reinstalling the hands. 

Were it not for Mark's original video, I wouldn't have had the knowledge to buy this watch, replace the battery, reprogram it and reset the hands. This is an absolute little jewel of a watch. Additionally, since it operates at 196 Khz instead of the more usual 32768 Hz, these models are incredibly accurate. The factory spec for a model of this type that is worn 12 hours/day is +/- 10 seconds/year. Wow!Seiko8F32.thumb.JPG.84bebbb54f31cb86843e68f93bc8d1e7.JPG

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I think One Dip is 99% tetraclorethilene
    • Yes Spectre6000, we saw more than a few of those. Thanks for answering a two year-old question. That was a first-time sight. 
    • I will be attempting to build a fully functional, cased Elgin size 6s Grade 206 pocket watch. This all began a short while ago, when I watched a video about getting in to watchmaking as a hobbyist in which the watchmaker being interviewed suggested starting with a scrap pocket watch movement, which can be found on the cheap on eBay. I found the ubiquity and low cost of American movements to be counter-intuitive, as I would think 100+ year old watches would be quite valuable. This led me down the rabbit hole of the history of pocket watches, and America's former status as the worldwide leader in production volume of watches. The Watch Flipping through eBay listings for non-running movements I ended up buying an Elgin one for about $20 shipped. Here is a photo of the movement-side, and here is a link to more info on Pocket Watch Database. An interesting thing about this particular piece is the lack of a seconds sub-dial. None of the examples I see online on Pocket Watch Database share that, which is a bit weird to me.   Phase 1: Irresponsibly Hacking Away When the movement first arrived, I decided to just take a stab at taking it apart. I figured, hey, it's a scrap movement that didn't cost me too much money, what's the worst that can happen? Well, I have to say I'm glad I learned the lesson of why NOT to do that, I just wish I'd been maybe a little more careful. As some fine folks here let me know, with a pocket watch or very old vintage movements, unless you're sure what you're dealing with isn't rare or valuable, don't treat it like trash. I went at the movement with the smallest screw drivers I had available and started to take it apart. Here are the mistakes I made: Not releasing the power from the mainspring: parts flew all over the place and I lost the center wheel for a couple weeks until recently I was looking for a fallen screw and came across it on the floor Not taking pictures - there are a couple missing parts from the setting mechanism, so I am a bit unsure about exactly what was originally going on since I didn't do step by step photos (it's also hard to photograph step by step when the whole thing blows up  ) Unscrewing the banking pins not knowing what banking pins are During re-assembly, after trying to set the banking pins so the watch might run, I gave the balance wheel a spin with a toothpick with what I KNEW was too much force, and broke off the impulse jewel - this also is a lesson I knew in theory but learned in practice all too clearly, not to force ANYTHING, and also not to treat any part as if it's scrap or garbage So with all that in mind, and with some insight from the community here which got me reading about the different Elgin models and parts, I've decided to source another identical movement, and a 6s-sized case + movement. Hopefully between the 3 I'll have enough good parts to have a fine working watch. I'd also love to hear anyones thoughts about "switching," I intend to attempt to use all parts from the same grade and model movement. The case I'd be using would probably not have originally contained this movement, as I see lots of 6s pieces w/ case and movement for sale but not with this particular movement.   Note: since the horrific events described above, I've amassed a bunch of tools (most of them cheap versions from eBay) for watchmaking, including a screwdriver set, tweezers, movement holders, parts trays, cleaner with baskets and jars, hand levers, lubricants, Rodico, and probably some more stuff I'm not mentioning. Will be in a bit of a better position to attack this next challenge. Anyway, stay tuned for Phase 2, when I will make what will hopefully a more measured and informed attempt at the build.
    • Thanks weasol been to them all every cal except the one you want. cheers gary
    • Hi All, I came across this pocket watch in a thrift shop. Here are some photos. Can someone tell me if its the real deal? Thanks in advance.  
  • Create New...