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Anker robot automatic; movement id

bsoderling

By bsoderling
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

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clockboy Distinguished Member

clockboy

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A new one for me. It almost has a Timex style design, but I found there was a watch maker (I Think USA) that traded under the name Robot. To refine the search I will need to look at the keyless side & maybe it will be in my "Bestfit" catalogue.One thing is for certain spares will be difficult to source. 

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bsoderling WRT Addict

bsoderling

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Hi all,

I wanted to share a bit more around this watch and where it ended for me.

It turned out to not be exactly the Intex 1057 movement as in the link I found, but definitely a relative to that. I can't really make up my mind if this is a truly ugly watch or if it has a certain charm :biggrin:. If you look for thin and slim designs, this won't be in your taste, that's for sure. After a thorough clean it all seems to work nicely, even the simple date design switches as it 's supposed to.

The add-on automatic part is a story of its own. Simple but efficient and to my surprise; isn't the operation in many ways similar to Seiko's magic arm...?

The pallet fork design is a new to me in wristwatches and looks like what I have seen in a few pocket watches and I believe is called "English lever", with the pallet jewel arrangement 90 degrees to what I'm used to see.

An interesting experience, which may indicate the quality level ;) was the "extra" hole jewel that suddenly appeared at the bottom of my cleaning jar. I obviously thought a jewel had come loose and I went looking for where it should be. But no...there was simply no jewel missing and I must assume the thing has been sitting in there as a lost item during the assembly...

Here's a few photo's: 1174786389_IMG_0721(Edited).thumb.JPG.df4a963bcd1996077c9ffca763eddfee.JPG806999863_IMG_0724(Edited).thumb.JPG.3c37fb5cf48ba01d8875bb4de16bf220.JPGIMG_0726.thumb.JPG.47c121b4e3ed34bbbf002a3273d2d15a.JPG

 

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    • Neverenoughwatches
      Part swapper to part maker

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I did try that last time Rich , i traced the image from the Bestfit book which is the actual size. But its more difficut to cut the shape from paper than it is to grind the steel to shape. This way is pretty easy and the final shaping is done when fitting the part. There are a couple of things i will do differently next time, clamping the 2 pieces together with a drill press will help to hold while scribing the shape in. This was a bit tricky having only one hole, if using the pins and cork the drill size needs to match the pin diameter so there is no movement at all from the template. This movement hasn't finished frying me yet, damaged thread in the plate crown wheel hole and two rubbed in cracked jewels, thats gonna be much more fun.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      A big thank you.

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      👍 Whats not to follow OH ?  You're every inch a pro and a true gent, i always enjoy reading your answers even some of the clock stuff that i dont have a clue about. 
    • RichardHarris123
      Part swapper to part maker

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      Could you print the image either enlarged or reduced to the same size as the actual part and then glue it to the steel. 
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Part swapper to part maker

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Next is to drill the screwhole this then provides an anchor point so the bridge doesnt slip around while scribing the shape. A cork lid, a pin and a piece of gaffer tape ( 😅 ) keeps it all in place. The hole is measured from the broken part using a hand measuring gauge. Mark the hole, punch it and drill it off to size. The awkward bit is working out where the jumper should be and the detent positions.  I remember watching a youtuber a while back do this with dividers, so i dug out my old school compasses and improvised a little. This bridge only has one hole and to find the detent positions you need two points of reference, so i just worked the second point from one of the corners, hopefully its near enough. Then scribe in the jumper using the two detent positions ( wind and time set ) that were marked and a big picture of the complete spring to look at that helps to give you a feel of where the jumper should be.   
    • ManSkirtBrew
      Seitz Tool - Help determine if Seitz or not

      By ManSkirtBrew · Posted

      Right now I'm making do with a similar micrometer (the one below is $45 shipped but you can find better deals) and a $20 stand. You do have to be excruciatingly careful measuring jewels, since there's no table, but if you don't have the $500 to throw around, it's a nice option.
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