Leaderboard

It needs replacing. As you say its not flat, so it has become out of shape. When a spring is out of shape and it is wound up, it will rise and rub the barrel on the inside; this can cause poor flow of power to the train and erratic time keeping. A new spring will come wound up and all you do is press the new spring in to the barrel. Just make sure before pressing in you have the spring the right way.

Made a tailstock modification today that I would like to share with you ! I have been using a home made drilling runner on my Boley/Leinen 8mm Reform lathe which I mainly use for making watchparts. The runner was made from 8mm stainless steel rod which I turned down to the 7.5mm in the tailstock. A small 3-jaw China made chuck held the drill bits in place. I used the supplied adapter that came with the chuck - a Morse taper to straight 5mm hole. The chuck was not perfectly centered but I usually solved this by finding center with a graver and loosening the bolt on the tailstock for some extra play. Last couple of weeks I made some parts that needed holes that where 0.4 and 0.2mm wide. The larger hole was no problem but when I drilled a 0.2mm hole in brass and then in plexi - it was obvious that the setup had reached its limit! So - what to do? First of all I needed better precision. So I removed the adapter from the chuck and cut a matching Morse taper directly on my 7.5mm rod. Tests where very promising - I easily hit center with drillbits down to 0.3-0.2mm. Tests where then made with a 2 flute 100µm drill in brass and.......yes It worked! I wanted to have control of the depth as I need to make some parts with a 1mm deep 100µm hole, this is hard with the lever operated versions that you usually see. I first taught of making a downsized version of a "standard" tailstock found on larger lathes but I had trouble making a good "custom" fit to the original Reform tailstock. Ended up with this first version: The parts made: Used M6 as it has a 1mm/turn pitch and a matching scale is easy to make. The taper on the outside of the tailstock took some experimenting to get right - but 3deg fits well! The final result:' ' Cut my "runner" a bit to much, so I only have 8mm travel - but it's enough for most work-will make a longer one if I need to! Drilling a 100µm hole on a flat surface worked like a charm! So - that's my take on easy to make drill adaptors!

Victory! I disassembled it, washed the mainplate, fork, fork bridge, balance and it's bridge, their jewels separately in alcohol. I didn't think the fork jewels were shellac'ed on but I was watching, and sure enough, the shellac started dissolving. I pulled it out before any harm was done and finished cleaning with rodico. Reassembled and relubed everything except the fork pivots. To my surprise, I also learned that the regulator tail is a separate piece from the piece actually carrying the regulator pins, so I was able to adjust the regulation and beat nicely while keeping the tail in a reasonable position. I'm cherrypicking here obviously, but here is the final result. This movement has never ran as well as it does now, so I'm very happy. THANK YOU all for your help. Cheers Florian

Sounds like the set lever has fallen out of the clutch groove. Aside from replacing the hands (why?) did you take apart the movement or specifically the keyless works? I'm not familiar with SW200 but it is similar to the ETA 2824, which I've worked on. When you removed the stem, how exactly did you do that? J

Make a steel ring and shrink it over the end with the crack. It should allow you to use it until you source another.