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Pics 1 & 2 - canon pinion. This can be dismantled if needs be but there is a risk altering the tension at the friction coupling or distorting the sprung arms so I don't bother. Just run it through the cleaner as is and lubricate the friction coupling on reinstallation. Pics 3 & 4 - The date driving wheel doesn't come apart. Just through the cleaner as it is. Pic 5 - Auto winding reverser wheels. These don't come apart either. The official ETA guidance is that they shouldn't even be cleaned, just replaced. However that's is rarely required. Run them through the cleaner as they are. Lubricating these is a contentious subject. I have a 1 part 9010 to 30 parts naphtha solution that I dunk them in and then leave them to allow the naphtha to evaporate. This leaves them coated with the thinnest film of 9010, and I have never had any issues with them sticking. There is also a product called Lubeta which is specifically for lubricating reversers which is used in a similar way. Do a forum search or Google "lubricating reverser wheels" and you will find various solutions and much disagreement as to what should and shouldn't be considered. Find what works for you and ignore the critics Pic 6 - The main spring barrel. The damage doesn't look too bad but if it were mine I would use it as it is and see how the watch performed, but I would also look out for a replacement. You could try polishing out the damage but it's fiddly unless you have a lathe, in which case mount it up in a step collet and see if you can clean it up without either weakening the parts or making too much room inside the barrel. Easiest though is to replace. When you have the problem sorted check the main spring for flatness and if it is out replace it. The problem is most likely caused by a distorted M/S and highlights what can happen when a spring is inexpertly hand wound into the barrel. You should always use a M/S winder where possible, and perfect the art of hand winding for when a winder isn't an option.

Well I finally was able to scratch an itch for a watch I have tried numerous times to get and had come up short on those occasions . That watch is a Seiko 6138 - 8020 "Panda " Chronograph . The more I saw this watch and kept missing my chances at acquiring one , the more I wanted one. The pics are the sellers and he apologized that some of the pics had a yellow hue . He said he had it serviced a few years ago , wore it for 12 month , and it has been in a drawer for the last 2 years . The Watch : I think the day usually comes in 2 languages and I can see Sun in red letters . I'm curious if there is another language and what it is . I made an offer and didn't hear back from the seller for a few days so I figured the offer was too low for them compared to what they were asking . I feel it doesn't hurt to make an offer and see what happens , and sometimes you get a surprise . I can add this to my collection of other Seiko automatic chronographs . So far I have 2 Pogues and 2 Helmet/Vaders ……Maybe another Panda is in the future ….

It's like Bergeon KT-22? It says silicon grease but it doesn't smell like silicon? And it's not working very good either? Have used it on gaskets and it makes the gasket stick to the crowntube in no time. Use Seiko silicon grease . That's the best?

After nearly 2 hrs straight I finally managed to get the bridge on with all of gears correctly in place, a slight push on the mainspring barrel has the gears spinning. Just to prove it was not a fluke (I wish) I removed the bridge and had another go - back to square one and having the same problems. I'll give it a rest come back to it tomorrow. On the positive side I didn't break or bend any of the gear spindles, they are small I measured one 0.2mm or 8 thou in the old system.

Hand fitting mainsprings is really tricky. Unless you have experience removing and refitting mainsprings on scrappers or know what mainspring would replace it when you damage it, I suggest you open the barrel and attempt to clean and lubricate the spring without removing it, of course, thats not ideal, but much better than mangling the spring or being unable to refit it at all. Especially the case for smaller calibers/barrels. I think i must have practiced for many hours in total, repeatedly removing and refitting the mainspring, with about 10 different mainspring barrels on scrappers before I felt confident to do it for real, and I was long into the habit of wearing safety glasses due to unexpectedly losing grip at the wrong moment and it exploding out of my hand. ...maybe I was just a slow learner.

If you can post a photo it would help, but usually you just push the bottom of the barrel arbor down onto something hard, or gently tap the arbor bottom down and it should pop the top off

Some pics - I know forum members like pics. Still have not managed to get the bridge on, main concern is breaking the pivots. I put the bridge back without any of the gears just to gauge the amount of pressure needed to seat it - not much, I did notice though it needs to be put on squarely, then assembled with only the two larger gears, took about 20 seconds, I noticed that the jewels are opaque and I can see the pivots moving around through the jewels. It is the circled gear that is causing me headaches. Not about to give up though. A pic also of the stem with the remains of the tube next to it.

Glad you found it out! On these watches, the rotor runs bare between the bearing surfaces formed by the rotor and the slotted retaining screw. If you have one which has too much end shake you can remove a bit of the raised portion on the inner side of the rotor, this effectively closes the bearing up. Do it a bit at a time so you don't remove too much metal. You should not have problem with the rotor hitting the mainplates as the amount removed is very little but check it anyway. In the event it does hit the movement plates then you need to grind off a bit from the edges as well. Anilv