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Don't now if you seen this before.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJzFkbH4vs8

Whenever I regulate a Watch I tend to wind it nearly full then let it run for a while. Then do the regulating, then monitor for 24 hours. Recently did this on my Obris Morgan with a Miyota movement. Now running at - 5 seconds a day which is pretty good.

I only have a small set of right handed winders ,so often hand wind. I give my hands a thorough clean and scrub with a nail brush then once dried off roll rodico around the tips. Once the spring is in I roll rodico over the open barrel end and clean the closed barrel with rodico with cots on. As I suffer from springlexia I always photograph the spring in the barrel before I remove it as I have been known to refit them upside down. :thumbsd:

Absolutely, I made do with cheap stuff but eventually moved on to quality brands. As an example I'll tell you about my first screwdriver set: I made it work with true Bergeon tips, but in most cases they fitted "crooked" and out of alignment. The work involved to make them work and the end result was not worth it when compared with the real thing. I suppose this would do in a pinch but again, not worth it for a regular, lasting set.

Just an update I have got a movement for the case : Vintage Girard Perregaux, Peseux 200 17 jewels Watch movementNever worked on one of these yet and don't know much about it but the movement is quite thin according to Ranft and that is what I need to fit the case, the diameter is spot on as well and it looks like the stem will line up. There are a few things to sort out but parts are quite available if a bit pricey. The hour wheel is £8.00 for starters and the stem about £6 but the movement is a perfect fit for the case and I have some dials that will fit . Perregaux dials are available but only at 3 times the price paid for the movement which was only £9.88 inclusive of postage. Hands should not be a problem. Looks like a full strip down is needed and oiling - which reminds me I am out of D5 - that will cost more than the lot. :notfair: Cheers, Vic

Hello Tore and welcome. Some very nice watches you have there. Be warned this is the end of life as you knew it!!!!

Hi Ken, you've done really well to get it serviced and keeping good time. :)Regarding the stripped thread on the cap jewel retaining plate; I'm assuming it is the thread in the main plate that is stripped, and if so you should be able to rotate the cap a little and drill and tap another thread. This will mean using a micro drill and tap of the correct size. Not too difficult a job if you have the correct equipment. If you don't want to go to the expense of purchasing a small precision pillar drill, you could drill the hole by carefully using one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Archimedes-micro-mini-hand-drill-and-20-HSS-Titanium-coated-drill-bits-/361214643509?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item541a120d35 just make sure that you keep it vertical when drilling. As for the tap, you could buy the likes of this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Quality-Screw-Plate-with-14-Taps-Dies-Watchmakers-Jewellers-/200965782440?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2eca7e7ba8 not the best, but probably good enough for what you require at the moment. If you can find a screw that is one size bigger than the original, you will only require a matching tap to re-thread the original hole.

Good set of tweezers that don't break the bank? Sorry, but no such animal exists. Cheap tweezers aren't good, and good tweezers aren't cheap. I only use one pair of tweezers for everything; except hairsprings of course ... a pair of Gold Plated Brass Dumont #4's that I've custom shaped just the way I like them. Brass tweezers don't ping parts like steel, never become magnetized, have a lovely soft free, and I never have to worry about marking parts with them. I've been using them 8hrs a day, 5 days a week for 7months, and at the most I have to give them a light dressing once a week. ... I will cry when they are worn out :(, and they will receive a royal burial with full military honours.

Wow! What a bargain Andy, that looks like a quite expensive model too.

Thanks for taking the time to post these excellent photos Stu. :)

Then I'll have two projects as a learning process then, Elgin PW and Urika WW.

Good call Ken! Cheers, Bob

Thanks, Ken! Helped a lot. =]