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Jules Borel has a nifty parts search which lists interchanges between different models. Here's the search I did for AS 1951: WATCH MATERIAL INTERCHANGE LIST 705/1234 ESCAPE WHEEL, S/S 705/STA 1950 Price Each $ 26.20 AS 1940 21600 BPH-DSS-SHOCK-ADJ-STUD HOLDER AS 1941 21600 BPH-DSS-CALENDAR-SHOCK-ADJ STUD AS 1950 21600 BPH-DSS-SHOCK-ADJ STUD HOLDER AS 1951 21,600 BPH-DSS-CALENDAR-SHOCK-ADJ STUD HOLDER Looks like the AS 1940 escape wheel is common with the 1950/51. If you can't find the individual part cheap enough, an entire movement is the way to go. You can either swap parts or the entire movement. Either way you'll have lots of spare parts should anything fly off your tweezers into the ether. These two are listed as NOS. Might be worth a look: http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=as+1951&_ssn=vacheron_nl&_armrs=1&_from=R40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xas+1950.TRS1&_nkw=as+1950&ghostText=&_sacat=0

My latest and greatest. The watch seems to be working fine but I do want to service it at some point.

Hello all. This is my first post. I got into watches last year. I have serviced several movements in the last few months. I learn something new with every one. I started with several ETA movements: 2801, 2824, 2836. Then I did several Tissot movements: 794 (3), and I just got a 796 that I haven't started on yet. I am working on an AS 1916 that I got out of an old Carravelle. I am having trouble getting it to work. I cleaned and serviced it but the minute and hour hands won't move. I assume it is the large driving wheel or large offset wheel and pinion depending on who describes the part. Any clues on how to proceed? Any chance of getting a new part? Thanks.

Mikrolisk has it registered as a swiss firm in 1959 by Mohammed Toufik Taha along with a lot of other names which looks about right with that style of watch.

Without knowing the size required I suggest you order a selection of flat gaskets such as Cousins No G0678

I have the suction dies but I don't really rate them. Having said that - they got me out of trouble a few months ago then I was working on a watch which the front bezel screwed off and there was no notches, worked like a charm but I suspect the cheap rubber ball thingy would have done the same thing :)

Good view here in Wicklow - clouds made it quite dramatic

I have used both the Bergeon (which I own) and the Horotec and to be fair, it is very hard to say one is better than the other. They both perform their function very well and minimise risk of damage to watch backs very well. I cannot say wether the geniune dies will work with a clone but I can say that the clone dies do work with the original Bergeon tool because that I have tried. Having said that, the very fact that they are clones will mean that there is a 50/50 chance that the dies will fit because I am sure the manufacturing tolerances are very low on the chinese manufacturers agenda. What I can say though is that the clone Rolex dies are completely crap and not worth the bother, better to buy the Horotec or Bergeon dies and the great thing is that they seem to fit either machine which is a bonus. I have some Rolex dies made by Horotec which work perfectly fine in my Bergeon machine.

Just went through my SD card, this is all I got. The lens flare managed to capture it but I missed the total eclipse :(

I purchased this year the Horotec case opener & have been extremely pleased with it. You can also get dies to fit it for specific calibers. The dies are pricey but once bought they should last a life time. I recommend you have a look, it,s a good bit of kit & cheaper than the Bergeon Cousins No. C22162

Agree with Bob. It,s highly unlikely you will get Mido ocean hands but once you know the sizes required you should be able to source suitable hands. As a personnel preference I would prefer if the exact size is not available to have hands slightly loose and then tighten.

Hi John, it appears that the hand measurements are 1.30/0.84/0.21 mm, that is, 1.30 mm the hole in the hour hand, 0.84 mm the hole in the minute hand and 0.21 mm for the seconds hand. You will only need to measure the minute track for acceptable length or the actual length of the original hands and browse different vendors. I sometimes find stuff unobtainable at ofrei in cousins or sometimes borel, cas-ker and esslinger...those are my main sources. Maybe we can get more input from other members... Another solution you can try is finding the closest hole match and either broaching it larger or crimping it smaller but that is a difficult and very skilled endeavor. Hope this help, Cheers, Bob PS. You can actually measure the post where the hands go. i.e. cannon pinion, and so on, with a gauge...I find this kind of difficult in some movements without disassembly.

Nice machine clockwatcher, now that's a good professional kit! Congratulations!