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Like it, looks even better as I've only just upgraded today to Windows 7 from XP.

My daughter brought home a classmate's automatic Timex (M32 movement, made in Philipines, no jewels) to have the crystal replaced. As you can see, someone really enjoyed using glue or had vast amounts they needed to use up ;)! Anyhow, I used my crystal lift to remove the old one and being that it was in two pieces, it came out very easily. My questions is, being that the crystal is not round, do I risk damaging the new one if I use the crystal lift? Should I use my case press instead? I am actually still assessing the entire watch to see exactly what needs to be done (obviously needs a deep clean and oiling). The crystal is available but I am still looking into the crystal gasket. This is the first automatic I have had the chance to work on and it seems that the rotor is also loose and was rubbing on the bottom of the movement (common on these Timex watches). I'll have to deal with that if we proceed with the repair. Despite all this, it is currently running. Thoughts? Cheers! Roger

So do I and it wasn't my problem. Well done Don, that was a great bit of detective and horological work, I'm well impressed!

Nice piece of detective work and I hope it's solved the problem.

I found the issue! I removed the balance to once again inspect it and the hole jewels. I again removed the cap jewels to pegwood the holes just in case I had missed something that was causing the balance to bind. after reassembling the movement, the balance would stop in the dial up position! What the @*%# ! I looked at everything to see what was touching to make it stop.....it was the center wheel! I checked for end shake and it was not excessive. I checked the balance cock and it had been indented on the bottom to raise it up a bit, presumably to give more clearance. Also the lower balance jewel did look a little high in the hole. I also looked at the pallet and noticed it was hitting low on the roller jewel. Seems previously there was a repair was done to either the balance staff or lower hole jewel that cause the balance assembly to sit higher than normal. Instead of fixing the issue, the balance cock was indented in the bottom to raise it up, thus giving clearance to run. I flattened the indentations, which lowered the cock. But, now the balance had no end shake. I pressed the lower jewel a tiny bit further down in the plate and Viola' ! it has acceptable clearance to run without touching. I'm still not sure why It wasn't stopping when I first received it, but I'm sure that this was the cause of the original problem... I feel better now!

Well done Geo :)

I agree - removing the movement is of paramount importance before cleaning the inside of a case as any debris can easily drift into the train. If you can master removing the watch movement from the case then you open up opportunities like being able to use an ultrasonic cleaner. Just make sure the case is bone dry before re-assembly :)

here's my review of the microscope. http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/337-brunels-entry-level-bm1-long-arm-microscope-review/

Not sure wether the Moly Schumacher is the same stuff but Molykote DX is the recommeded grease on most Omega/ETA data sheets. And this stuff would last 100 watchmakers a 100 years lol http://www.silmid.com/products/molykote-dx-paste-1kg-tin.aspx Ok so they do have a smaller offering ;) http://www.silmid.com/products/molykote-dx-paste-50gm-tube.aspx And an even smaller offering :D http://www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-Molykote-Grease-Lubricant/dp/B00CAD6AAE

My thanks to Geo for kindly sorting this for me from the goodness of his heart. Appreciated.

At first glance, the jewel on the incabloc that is visible, appears to not be locked in properly. This could result in the jewel sitting off slightly in its setting and causing the problem that you described. Before going any further pop the locking clip (left hand side as looking at the photograph) in properly and see if that cures the problem. This may just have been an optical illusion due to the angle at which the photograph has been taken. As it is an old watch, it possibly requires a strip down and clean anyway. Regarding the crystal if you cannot source a new one, you could carefully polish out the scratches and re- finish it. I do this a lot when refurbishing watches, it is time consuming, but excellent results can be achieved.

Well I would definitely start with Moebius 9010 (for train wheels and balance endstones) and 9020 (for train wheels) if you are working on Pocket Watches. Moebius 9415 is a must for Pallet/Escape wheel teeth. A quality silicon grease. Moebius D5 is essential (barrel arbor, motion work). Molycote DX or Moebius 9501 grease for keyless work. Moebius 9501 or 9504 for high friction (e.g. Cannon pinion, Setting lever spring and anything at high friction). Moebius 8200 grease for mainspring. Moebius 8217 for barrel wall (automatic watches) It's a lot but at a minimum get 9010, 9415, D5 and 8200 I hope this helps. Recommended Lubricants for Getting Started.pdf Moebius_Oil_Chart.pdf