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wls1971. You have the two right answers. Replacement platform. The whole case is in fact brass and not bronze. Peanut goes to you. You are wrong about the date. The movement is around1860. The push on hands are correct and are matching, the style is spade. A big thanks to all for taking part. Next time I will have to make it harder.

I’m working myself through Mark Lovic’s “Watch Repair Lessons & Courses”. Before enrolling I wasn’t sure the courses would be worthwhile to me, as I had spent a huge amount of time researching the Internet on how to service watches, and had serviced several Vostok 24XX movements (very affordable movements, BTW). Now, in hindsight, the courses have proved to be extremely valuable to me. I’ve learned things that I just haven’t been able to find elsewhere, like how to easily transfer watch oil from the bottles to the oil pots, how the get the right amount of oil onto the escape wheel teeth, how to remove rust from pinion leaves, that I shouldn’t oil the pallet fork jewel bearings (and why!). The list could be made very long. Anyway, yesterday I finished the level 2 section of the course, named “Lubrication and Re-Assembly”, and as I beheld the magic of seeing the movement come to life again I shoot a slow-motion video of its beating heart, i.e. the balance wheel. For anyone interested you can see the video here. Thanks for reading!

Its probably nickel plated. Stainless didnt become popular in watch manufacture until the early 1930's it was too difficult to work using method in use at the time and far too expensive a material when first introduced in 1913.

Googling only turned up a few examples similar to yours, seems to from the late 90s. They don't seem to keep their value very well given what people seem to have sold them for, including yours. Ingersoll watches new seem to go from £200 upwards. But I know nothing about the brands history ie if it's manufacturing standards have improved or declined over the years and so am not sure if current pricing of Ingersoll watches is any indication of original worth. Quite a nice, unique watch isn't it? Good find, especially given it's condition.

Nice one Vwatchie. I'm a little bit behind you.

Well, you are going to need one at some point! Very handy for finishing the ends of stems, etc. See attached photo: you could stone the edges of the spring hinge equally on each sides (count the number of strokes). It would need to be very gradual so that it only just fits when pushed into the incabloc setting. Alternatively, just a get another Chinese movement, but it seems a bit of a waste of money, especially because the replacement spring will also be an excessively loose fit due to their design.

I usually only oil the jewel and little in the small impression on the second wheel. The oil on the jewel i think would be enough for both the jewel and the friction point .

A spot of 9010 just under the pinion and also on the wider portion of the pivot. "Should any oil be applied to the friction point between the jewel (on the inner/intermediate bridge) and the fourth wheel pinion, and if so what kind of oil?" Yes... D5 - as always, not too much. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

That’s nice to know. You can never stop learning. The internet was not around when I was an apprentice. I learned from my master. It just goes to show I’m an old fart. I enjoy the forum so much in helping others with knowledge that I have gained over the years.

Hello, I am new to this forum, hope to be joining the right thread. While watching Mark's course, I ordered my first tools and the clone movement. But it takes an astonishing 50 days for them to arrive... So to gain time, and procrastinate a bit from my real work (lute making) I started making a few basic tools. But finding the right profiles to copy is challenging. So many angles for the hand levers... I chose 30 degrees, and repurposed some useless screwdrivers I had around. Next the oil containers..which size? Is it critical to have small concave pools? Or they can be 8-10 mm wide? I used some camera lenses, with concave surfaces. Cannot imagine something closer to the agathe or cristal used on the professional ones. For the caps, I used more lenses. The container seems tight enough to hold the dust outside, while good enough to concentrate the puddle of oil on the center. One interesting effect I found is that with the cap (the second lenses) I can see magnified how contaminated my oil already is... Then the oil needles.. The shape is easy to copy, once you find close images of fine oilers, but what kind of surface transports oil best? Shiny or matte? ( when cleaning the dippers, it seems that a shiny surface is best for assuring nothing remains on the tool..)