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That is what many "quick learners" have chosen, including myself. One good reason is when you get it working you may end with a nice current watch of any size rather than a vintage looking large one. Personally I didn't find anything very difficult working on it.

The problem with visually looking at a watch and seeing that it's clean isn't really a fair assessment of the condition of the watch. Combined with a timing machine result especially if the amplitude is incredibly low is better. That tells you that while it may look clean it's not clean as others have noted above. The problem with lubrication it doesn't just disappear in it can do a variety of things including get very gummy which results in low amplitude. Depending upon how well the watch was sealed Moisture can get in pivots can get rusty. Then combined with fresh new lubricant it makes a really nice grinding compound. Then as far as starting with a Seiko wristwatch Like the 7s26 It's still considered a small watch to start with your better off with a pocket watch movement to practice assembling and disassembling. What works really well for beginners watch is the 6497 Or 6498. You can either buy the Swiss or the Chinese clone of this on eBay it's basically a nice big wristwatch. Then as you can buy the movement you not destroying a total watch just in case something undesirable happens which usually happens to beginners.

I don't know what experience you have but stripping, cleaning, re-assembly and lubrication are the very basics all watch repairers or hobbyist should have. If not confident with this then I suggest leave well alone as it is very easy to distroy a watch.

Just lubricating the watch is not a good idea. It could make matters worse because if it is dirty you are just making a bigger sludge for the pivots to turn in.

Yes, start with a basic 19'" swiss pocket watch movement first!

That is a ladies mov.t which makes it more difficult for a beginner, definitely not recommended. To learn is better that you choose a larger one. Follow Mark's lessons for examples.

The low amplitude could be lack of cleanliness i.e. oil congealed oil/dirt in the balance jewels. This will slow to balance with a greater effect showing crown up/down etc. This watch in my opinion needs a service & clean & re-lubricating before any further adjustments.

A little more detail... the part that you have labelled S F is the hairspring stud holder, moving this changes where the point of rest of the impulse pin/roller jewel is in relation to the pallet fork, by moving this around you change the distance of each half of the balance swing (the tick and tock) The other part noted is regulator arm which holds the curb pins, these change the effective length of the hairspring to regulate the timing. Moving them further away from the stud holder (in this case clockwise) will shorten the hairspring, making the watch gain time. Moving them closer to the stud holder (anti-clockwise) lengthen the hairspring, making the watch lose time. As you found, there is a relationship between the 2 parts, that mean changing one affects the other. Tom

I'm also wondering what the effect would be should one go in and adjust those pins. All hell would break lose. It might not escape, it could overbank, there could be no way of regulating the power, all the power could just run down, balance wheel action would go bananas. This is just a few of the major reasons why you should not play with the banking pins unless you know what you are doing.

If you have an accurate caliper i would go for a 27.8 . But your way of measuring is not perfect . You could very well be measuring at a place where it's smaller . I think this method is safer.

I think the best tip I got was using a simple piece of polythene-bag over the dial when removing the hands. SO simple and cheap (I Like Cheap!) and works flawlessly! Stops the possibility of the little buggers flying off into unknown-land with all the other lost parts too! A big thanks for that tip Mark!

I have a bezel remover see pic but to be honest I don,t like it. The best way I have found to remove a bezel is with a old butter knife. It has a nice thin blade but is flexible so no damage to the bezel or case. Trusty butter knife/bezel remover

I love looking and watchmakers bench's and the tools that are used, it seems to say alot about a watchmaker and his work. This is my work bench at the moment. It's a regular computer desk elevated with risers to about 35 inches, just under 3 feet. As I'm just starting out I know my tools will have to gradually change to better quality than the Chinese tools that I mostly have....what's on your bench? Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk