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The dial is almost certainly a copy. See the link below that explains the differences between genuine & copied seiko,s http://www.ebay.co.uk/gds/How-to-Distinguish-an-Authentic-Seiko-Watch-From-a-Fake-/10000000177540240/g.html

Oh sorry I did't saw that. All good then.

Not in my experience of having regulated many dozen of watches. Dial up / down beat error typically varies of say 0.1, 0.2 mS, most times not at all.

Rogart, I don't know whether it's still of interest to you, but here is some additional information regarding your "50 years of Volvo" Certina: Volvo issued some 64,000 watches to employees not just in the factory but all around the world in order to celebrate "50 År Volvo - 1927 - 1977". Certina was at the time a prime supplier of watches to Volvo who issued them as 100,000-km-presents to valued customers. So it was quite natural that Volvo turned to Certina when it came to a gift for the celebration of Volvo's semi-centennial. Basically, there were two types of watches: for male employees, Volvo issued the Certina Blue Ribbon with a steel case, for women the Certina 'Mayfair' with a gilt one. The watches were taken from Certina's 1977 range. I don't know much about the 'Mayfair', but the 'Blue Ribbon' was actually equipped with an in-house movement, the well-developed 25-651/25-651M. I'm pretty sure that actually all Volvo watches were meant to be delivered with the in-house caliber. However, Certina's capacity at that time was at around 650,000 watches per year, and the production of mechanical movements was in the process of being wound down, so it's easy to see why an order the size of Volvo's, mopping up some ten percent of Certina's overall capacity, could not be fulfilled with in-house movements alone. Therefore Certina bought additional ETA movements (ETA 2783) which were refined and renamed "25-011". Because the arrangement of the date ring was slightly different, new dials needed to be used as well, with a slightly smaller date window aperture set slightly to the center when compared with the original dial. These dials were in a greenish hue (like in your watch) whereas the original ones were blue. Held next to each other, the differences between the two watches are easily discernible: Enjoy your watch! I hope you brought it back to life! Best regards Andreas PS: Do you drive a Volvo, too? ;-)

NICE just got a Blackstar fly as a small practice amp impressive sound for something so small and only 3 watt I use it with my zoom g5 I used to use a pedal board with separate pedals but I find the g5 has it all in one place and acts like separate pedals once you've spent a couple of days figuring it out

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i can see myself! that looks fantastic! i have a few that i've played with and buffed out. i've tried to be careful and not lose any sharp edges - on some of them. on others, i just went at it with no regard for factory correctness. it wasn't a good enough case to worry about.

I have buffed to a brilliant shine a few Seiko stainless steel cases, no issue. Even the dents look ok when shined Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can tell if a watch is out of beat, when the balance has been fitted to the cock and some power has been added the watch should start if not a little shake will do, now watch for the escape one way then the other if its the same its in beat if its out it needs adjusting, have you listed to the ticking if its even then all is ok, if it sounds funny then its out. Watch repairers/ makers didn't always have fancy machines to tell them everything. Hand levers would do it but as I said you need to e very careful. You could do the other thing and that is take of the roller and adjust that, that type of fitting for the hairspring can be little sods.

Here are some more pictures of the disassembly. I already removed the stone of the balance wheel for cleaning.

Hello a few months ago I picked a nice Helbros manual wind watch with a movement I hadn't seen before the hamazawa 5026 unfortunately it was missing its stem and setting lever.After checking cousins and other outlets without any luck I laid the watch to one side thinking I'd never find the parts needed. Then a month or so ago while trawling through our friend The watch collectors bay site for a couple of Seiko movements I spotted a set of 4 URIKA zombies with low and behold HAMAZAWA movements I quickly purchased these for a mead 8 quid plus his usually packing and waited not very patiently for them to arrive. One I've used as a donor for my Helbros which now runs beautifully and can be seen in watch of the day the other 3 I intend to bring back to life if possible. So here is number 1 a URIKA 56 auto 17 jewel 5026B. Oh and please excuse my photography I'm definitely not David Baily As you can see old battered and generally zombiefied. And with the back off we find a none running stuck 5036B movement I don't hold out much hope at this moment. Luckily once the plastic case ring was removed the rotor swang free it was just welded in with the green crud. Note the winding stem very unusual I haven't seen one like it before. Dail side bit crusty but ill just clean the parts the best I can I'm not going to try and find replacements. Calendar side bit better. First job remove the circlip holding the rotor in place. Rotor removed giving me my first idea of how much dirt I have to tackle. As you can see not the most complicated of self winding systems. Just a pivot point and an offset pivot on the rotor. Winding system removed time to remove the bridge and what looks like the balance cock Cock removed note that the balance adjustment lever is attached somehow to the main plate. Bridge off I like the way the wheels have corresponding holes in the according to there position in the train. Wheels and barrel removed I can't remove any of the setting system except the lever its all spot welded together very strange. The balance is removed and that's all I can do on this side. First remove clip from the center plastic pinion to free day dial. plastic setting wheels nice. Date ring and center plate removed and that's about it all parts were pegwood cleaned then ultrasonically cleaned before reassembly. I had no idea what the oiling and greasing should be as I couldn't find any tech sheets so I've oiled as you would an ordinary auto movement. movement cleaned and oiled and back in it case running smoothly with a beat error of .1ms and loosng 3 secs a day face down and 8 face up amplitude I think is a little low tho at 230 but that may rise after a day or so running. Glass polished nice surprise that its a prism type. Ida Dial and hands cleaned still a bit worn looking but I think it adds character. So that was an enjoyable service and clean I'll add a strap and put it in my collection. Mick