Jump to content

Seiko 6119 6400 release button

Johnnie

By Johnnie
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

Johnnie Super WRT Addict

Johnnie

Posted
Posted

Hi, I am looking for advice about Seiko 6119 6400, to cut a long story short I am trying to replace the winding stem and crown and have hit a problem. When I put the stem into the watch it turns the inner bezel/dial but won't stay in. I have noticed the little button that you press to release the stem is stuck down,,, I think this is the problem? I have dropped a little watch oil down the hole hoping it would pop out. Has anyone any advice? I don't really wish to dismantle the watch as it is running sweetly and I am very inexperienced with watches. Many thanks in advance. Johnnie

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ricardopalamino Distinguished Member

ricardopalamino

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi Johnnie ,

Hopefully you didn't inadvertently knock the yoke off of the groove on the clutch wheel . If the little button is stuck down , that means that the setting lever is not seated properly and not allowing the small nub on the setting lever to engage the grove on the setm.

This happens sometimes when replacing the stem .  First thing is to use the stem and crown or a small screwdriver in the stem hole to gently wiggle the parts into alignment . Doing this will work more often then not .

If this doesn't do the trick you have to remove the dial to access the setting / winding mechinism to align the parts ,...usually the yoke back into the clutch groove as I previously mentioned . Your watch is a bit more complacated because of the gear that turns the inner rotating bezel .

Attached is the PDF tech sheet for the Seiko 6106 , which is the base movement for the 6119 . You can see the parts I'm talking about ....Good Luck....

 

6106A.pdf

Edited by ricardopalamino
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Johnnie Super WRT Addict

Johnnie

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi Vinn, thank you for the advice, I will remember it. I know very little about the mechanics of watches and fully expected to make many mistakes and expect to make many more. But, every time I mess up I learn something new. This is a fantastic forum with many knowledgeable people on it and I am so pleased to have found it. Thanks again, Johnnie

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Johnnie Super WRT Addict

Johnnie

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi Vin, advice taken, have just ordered "practical watch repairing" by Donald de Carle! I think that's the book you mean, I have taken the dial off the watch as a jiggle didn't sort the problem, I had pushed the button thing out, all back in now but winding stem still pulls out,, not as easy as it did do. It's like it's now catching but not catching enough if that makes sense? Johnnie

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ricardopalamino Distinguished Member

ricardopalamino

Posted
Posted

Is the finger of the setting lever spring broken off ?

It keeps the pressure on the setting lever that holds if firmly in place and provides the clicks for positive setting positions...[ 1st position , 2nd position for setting . It is a common problem tor these delicate fingers to get broken off when refitting . They are necessary for proper setting operation.

 

59062061f38f6_ScreenShot2017-04-30at7_26_45AM.thumb.png.041f3814ac98ff27e3517407c573e005.png

5906207520acb_ScreenShot2017-04-30at7_27_37AM.png.59bd5bd2d529f5f2612d485697994e2a.png

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Johnnie Super WRT Addict

Johnnie

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi Ricardo, I have just checked,, everything is as it should be, nothing broken. But in checking I realised I had positioned it wrong! Have just positioned things as they should have been and now the winding stem is fitted and has clicked into position perfectly, thank you for the "clue" and the diagram. Johnnie

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Johnnie Super WRT Addict

Johnnie

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Indeed so Ricardo, I can't tell you how pleased I am. I know to most people on this forum it's not very much, but to me it's great, can't wait for tomorrow so I can finish it. I have to trim the stem next and fit the strap then it will look good. Bought some lock and seal so crown doesn't undo. Johnnie

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Johnnie Super WRT Addict

Johnnie

Posted
  • Author
Posted
22 minutes ago, ricardopalamino said:

Use patience when you trim the stem . You have the added gear and spring ,[I think ] , so don't cut it too short . Better a bit long and sneak up to the right length with a fine jewelers file .

Yes, I intend to sneak up on it bit by bit until it's exactly right! Normally I am not used to such tiny tolerances but I am enjoying it. Johnnie

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Knebo
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Knebo · Posted

      Yes, I was referring to the (jewelled) gear train with HP (most of the time, I use 1300, but when Rolex says 1000, I'll use 1000).
    • JohnR725
      Without Our Forum

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      did I miss the update of the message of something changing?      
    • JohnR725
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      I suppose it would depend upon what your lubricating with those? for instance what does the manufacturer say about those lubricants? I have a PDF from the manufacture and a rather peculiar statement found on the bottom of the chart. my suspicion is the reason the recommending would be without epilam the HP oils like the spread except when they're in Ruby jewel's with steel pivots. tableEN lubrication 2020.pdf
    • oldhippy
      Is this a 'hack' ?

      By oldhippy · Posted

      These types of hairsprings become weak with age and very fragile. Which I expect it is that giving you trouble, and that wheel is not the correct one, if it were not bent I don't think the movement would run as the teeth are not the correct height. The problem you have is price which depends on you. It can be repaired but is it worth it to you, because there is little value in the clock. A wheel can be made and hairspring replaced. Or hang on to it and keep looking on ebay which is your best bet for replacement parts or even a complete movement but it will be like finding a needle in a haystack. 
    • Knebo
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Knebo · Posted

      I did that also for a few movements - well, mainly in/around the train jewels. I made big efforts to epilame the mainplate WITHOUT getting Epilame into the Pallet fork jewels (where it's not supposed to be, right?). I made litte barriers with Rodico around that jewel and used drops from a syringe to apply on the rest.  However, I've now stopped doing this. For three reasons: 1. It's a hassle and consumes more of this liquid gold. 2. I didn't see the need when using HP1000/HP1300 lubricants and grease for most part. The two places where I'd use 9010 (i.e. escape wheel and balance) receive Epilame in specific places... or the cap-jewel-setting of the balance suspends the oil sufficiently be capillary action (see my "conflict" about using Epilame on the balance jewels).  3. Lastly, and here I really wonder about yours and others' experiences: I felt that applying Epliame to the train jewels left them looking hazy (borderline dirty) compared to the (painstakingly achieved) sparkly clean results of my cleaning process. I just can't help but think that the Epilame residuals would mix with the oil and cause more friction/wear. I don't know.    simple: it'll stay there. It won't move any further. That's exactly what is happening if you epilame a cap stone. You end up placing the 9010 right on top of the epilame and the oil will sit nicely on that spot.
×
×
  • Create New...