Marc

If you have an apple device and download the app linked in @deni2s's post the search function works properly.

That will need to come out the front, the dial is bigger than the movement. If the case has a removable bezel then take that off, if not then remove the crystal. Everything should then come out through the front of the case.

Just installed it on my iPhone (my only iOS device) and it appears to be intact and functional. I may have to go out and buy myself an ipad just for this app.

I have two Seitz sets, one ancient (with the 3mm anvils) and one just old (with 4mm anvils) plus a collection of spare pushers of assorted vintage. Not one of them is marked with it's size. Something which I have found very irritating when I have been using the tool and not returning pushers to their correct place in the tray every time as it means that I have to get the calipers out and measure them. These were bought as sets and collectively I have over 100 pushers so it would seem highly unlikely (if not inconceivable) that they are all cheap knock offs, especially as they are old enough to pre-date the prevalence of the Chinese knock off industry (at least as applied to watch making tools). I therefore believe them to be original Seitz parts. And there is no numbering. The shape of the bottom of the pump pushers is the same as your photo. The only thing that may not be the same is that the slotted insert (looks like a screw but is in fact a bayonet) should be brass. Yours looks the same colour as the steel but that could just be the lighting.

Here's one in action.

According to these guys "Coating watch parts with a thin, even monolayer of epilame provides an effective oleophobic barrier that halts oil spread in its tracks." Which is exactly the same process that causes water beading on a waxed car. An oleophilic treatment would actually cause the oil to spread out to as thin a layer as possible as every oil molecule would try and come into contact with the oleophilic surface. The reason an oleophobic surface prevents spreading is because the oil behaves in such a way as to have as little contact with the treated surface as possible.

It's a little circlip style retaining clip to keep the pinion from riding up out of position.

It most certainly should be there, but it should fit better than that. Here is what it should look like.

Someone is selling them as "New" on eBay at the moment with a BIN price of £151, but they are also accepting offers so you can probably do better than that.

I use these. They're silicon so softer than the traditional bench mat, which means that things are less likely to roll or bounce. The little recesses in the top edge make really useful holding pens for parts prior to transfer to a parts tray or project box proper, and when they get a little grubby they can just be washed and they come up like new. They're also cheap as chips.

The link I posted above is to Steffen Pahlow's video on creating "snailing" patterns on wheels. All of his videos are worth watching.

Try giving this guy a look to see how this type of finish can be achieved. You may want to have a look at his other videos as well, they're well worth watching.

The dial is indeed rose engine turned which is lovely once you get it clean. I have a couple of ideas for achieving that but need to sit down with and do some careful experimenting. Your case actually has a lot more shape to it now that I look properly, with the width reducing towards the lugs whereas mine is pure straight sided rectangle. I think they are both very lovely in their own way with a subtle, understated elegance typical of their era. As to the originality of the crown on mine, it could be the original, it's certainly quite old and is very much in keeping with the rest of the watch, but after 95 years who can tell Like you I intend to hang on to mine. I have developed quite a fancy for watches of this era with their quiet, unassuming presence and quality, in complete contrast to my other particular watch partiality which is field watches and divers. I currently have this little beauty on my wrist.

I have an almost identical J. W. Benson sterling silver tank with a hinged case on my bench at the moment, only mine has a Cyma REF: 836 movement, also not easy to come by. Mine also has a textured dial and different hands. Mine had a rough life and came to me with the extended seconds hand arbor broken off of the fourth wheel (not uncommon) but also the minute hand arbor broken off the center wheel which I've never seen before. Like yours mine also had a dial foot broken off. Your dial is in much nicer order than mine too (envious ). Both yours and mine are imported cases (not British made), hall marked at the Glasgow assay office, yours in 1933, mine in 1929. I don't have any finished pics of mine yet as I'm trying to source a replacement seconds hand. The original had been glued in place as there was no arbor to install it on and I couldn't get the glue out of the boss. However, here are some as it came to me including a comparison between the damaged wheels and the replacements. Fourth wheel on the left, center wheel on the right. Originals top, replacements bottom.

Try installing them and see what happens