Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm setting myself up to start to learn how to make balance staffs.

I've got a balance staff that has broken both pivots off so I need to measure the jewel holes to get the correct size to make the pivots.

I cant afford the price of a Bergeon 30333 pivot gauge set, so I am thinking about making some pivot gauges up which would also be good practice for myself.

I plan to do the initial turning on my watchmakers lathe and was thinking of finishing on my Jacot tool.

The one issue I have is the Jacot tool is made for turning a shaft with a wheel on it, which obviously I won't have.

Anyone got a good idea of something to make up like a miniature lathe dog to fit onto 1 or 1.5mm rod so I can use my Jacot tool?

For those that don't know what I mean by Pivot gauges Raul Horology's website has a great post on making them, with far better tools than I have available to me.

http://raulhorology.com/2012/04/pivot-gauges-with-straight-and-conical-pivots/

Posted

As I guess you've seen, these are a standard exercise in many watchmaking schools. If you are making them for actual use, it's not necessary to make both conical and square shouldered, but probably a good idea to make them conical as they will be less likely to break.

In schools they are usually turned entirely between centers, but you can turn them up in a lathe no problem. For finishing them in a jacot tool, you would normally use split carriers like the one in the photo from Horia. I believe Bergeon still makes a set as well, and you can make them yourself (the Adventures in Watchmaking blog has a good explanation).

In little balance staff pivot sizes you don't want to use a micrometer to measure, but rather a gage made up of hole jewels in .005mm increments (or smaller). A micrometer can very easily make a micro flat on a pivot even with a very light touch. I think for your gages you can get away with it though, as the flat would be more of an issue on a running pivot than a gage.

629.jpg

Posted

I can turn them on my lathe, its just the final polishing of the pivots I cant do on my lathe as I do not have a Jacot tool for my lathe.

Thanks for the website Nickelsilver.

Yes Cousins has the Bergeon tool and clamps, but at £150 or so pounds I would rather put the money to greater use.

A pivot gauge like you mention has been on my list for a while, but I haven't been lucky enough to get one yet.

I've got a pretty good selection of tools and equipment, but still a long way from a complete set.

Posted

I want to make a selection of pivots from 0.08 to 0.12mm going up in 0.01mm steps

I would be worried without a Jacot tool I would snap the pivot off if I tried to burnish them.

 

Posted

Making the drive carriers and opener is also a typical school project, doesn't have to be elaborate just functional. You could just make simple split carriers and open them with a twist of a screwdriver on a bench block.

Posted

Unusually finish them off with a Jacot tool just to avoid snapping off the pivot in the Lathe....chicken. I do have a jewelled ruler to measure the pivot size. I bring it down to around .14 in my Lathe and shave the rest off I’m the Jacot. Perhaps I can more brave as well. I did pick up a set of Pin Gauges:)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello all, just disassembling to service, but I can’t figure out the working of the calendar work…it’s not operational the jumper and spring are ok, but the operation of the driving wheel has me at a loss. I can’t see a cam to drive anything. Is something damaged or missing? Help please!
    • Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage. 
    • I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
    • I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
×
×
  • Create New...