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Posted

Hello Scott. Hope you do not mind me reviving your thread.

I recently got a pair of venus 170 movements for a bargain, U$40. One of them is completely rusted and does not have the main parts and springs. The other one is only missing the stem and one spring.

I intend to practise on those until I get some skills to take care of my first watch. A venus 175 which I find beautiful and would like to keep forever. 40c1b484f20ae044a8f1f9faeb0a4e5d.jpg84e78e6470057489d09566584a4b4c79.jpg

 

Here are pictures of my junk pieces, one rusted, the other already dismantled. And the untouched 175.

I will be following your steps, helped by esembl-o-graf and Mark’s videos.

 

Have you had any more fun with your 170?

Lastly,

Do you think the Hairspring in the last picture can be reused?

Cheers! f97b9f5e7d63835ad1a8e7d0cef2f0fe.jpg

 

Posted

Right, I just thought that condensing related subjects would add to organization. I sometimes get lost on the multitude of subjects. Besides, Scott's thread was a pleasure to follow. 

Here are my pictures: two venus 170, one just for parts, if I get rid of the rust.  The other maybe fixable, already in pieces. Screws were kept at their places, as advised.  

My 175, gaining a few minutes per day, despite demagnetization. Surely needs servicing, but I refrain to touch it.

Then the questions:

What would you use to clean the rust in such an extreme case? Emery paper? Fiberglass?

Second hairspring does not have stud. Is it usable still? 

 

 

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Posted

Assuming the hairspring is the right strength for the balance it should work just fine once studded.  You'll have to adjust the length to get the timing just right though and that can be a fiddly job.

Beautiful Venus 175- it looks like it's from the 30's or 40's. :)

When it comes rust remediation I keep a few strips of 600 to 1000 grit paper in the workbench; for flat surfaces (most of the chronograph levers) one or two glides against the paper is enough.  A fiberglass pen sometimes works for those hard to get places.  A bit of vinegar will remove rust too but you've got to be really careful- soak too long and it will eat into the steel as well.  I believe there's a thread around here where someone used Sodium Carbonate for electrolytic rust removal.  I haven't tried that yet.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks RyMoeller, I will then sand the pieces, preserving all the surfaces that touch other pieces. (these I will burnish with something) I ordered D5 and 8000 oil and grease, should be fine for the level of work I do. 

Posted
13 hours ago, marcoskaiser said:

Thanks RyMoeller, I will then sand the pieces, preserving all the surfaces that touch other pieces. (these I will burnish with something) I ordered D5 and 8000 oil and grease, should be fine for the level of work I do. 

It would be a good idea to get a caliper for measurement if you don't have one already.  When I hear the verb "sand" I immediately think of the material being removed.  It doesn't take much work to change the dimensions of a part enough for it to become non-functional.  ;o)

Good luck with your project!  :)

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Hello marcoskaiser,

How is your Venus 170 practice going?   Sorry for the delayed response, I moved recently and am still unpacking and getting the workshop set up.  Before the move I got sidetracked on Omega bumpers, but I do need to revisit that 170.  The pinion on the second wheel is slipping; pretty sure it's wear on the shaft of the second wheel as tightening the friction fit of the pinion didn't work.  But to replace that second wheel pretty much requires another complete disassembly.

Hi Ry!

Best wishes,

Scott

PS that 175 is a beaut!

Edited by ScottMcAfee
typo
  • Like 2
Posted
Hello marcoskaiser,
How is your Venus 170 practice going?   Sorry for the delayed response, I moved recently and am still unpacking and getting the workshop set up.  Before the move I got sidetracked on Omega bumpers, but I do need to revisit that 170.  The pinion on the second wheel is slipping; pretty sure it's wear on the shaft of the second wheel as tightening the friction fit of the pinion didn't work.  But to replace that second wheel pretty much requires another complete disassembly.
Hi Ry!
Best wishes,
Scott
PS that 175 is a beaut!

Hello Scott!
I have been dismantling and re-assembling the dead 170 many times (i think 8) trying to memorize the parts and sequence. There is another enthusiast beginner on watchuseek, Michal, who even made some springs.
We exchanged parts, and now need to get a case. Or make one. Don’t know which is more difficult.
I recently won a lot on ebay, and got really delicate tools for the job of fixing the hairspring (and 3! Of those tools for clamping and heating parts, if anyone is interested-i will offer those somewhere on this forum for free) Although obviously it is too early to succeed on fixing hairsprings, little by little the exercise of fixing and making tools is helping my touch.
Have you ever used the leveling tools?


The 175 is in a green strap now, waiting to be cared for one day..d86494061cd014a3c61bae9101c08bc4.jpgacecaa714f0d4ef6315315fc26ab036f.pnga80929a58764fc417e91ee183ac8de95.png
Posted

I"m still very much still a newbie and don't know what a "leveling tool" for watches even is.  For the hairspring work, I just used a couple of tweezers, a pane of glass, and many hours.  I'd be comfortable making minor tweaks now.  But the big thing I learned was to steer well clear of the hairspring at all times.  :)



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