Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey guys.

 

Been occupied by other things lathely, namely getting an old lathe up and running here at work...

It's quite beat and abused but Its a high quality Hardinge lathe. I rebuilt the compound (which clips onto the dovetail way as it's a lower-end second-operation lathe) so it has limited travel. The angle scale (which is under the top of the compound and visible through a magnifying glass built in) was completely covered in rust and grease. Now it's visible... It came in handy to set ~2 degrees of taper for my tack! I also took the excessive lash out of the compound ways so they are nice and tight now. This is a sweet lathe with a 3-jaw chuck as well as an assortment of 5C collets. I learned from a master tool and die maker on the high end version of this- the tool room lathe, with a proper apron able to cut inch and metric threads. This is it's lesser cousin.

A brass rod was tapered as thin as I could and then finished with sand paper as it was deflecting from the tool of course and not cutting as it got thin... I pressed it into a 1" slug of aluminum. A bit of tubing to keep it safe and a recycled container and we are done!

Anyway, here's the tack:

tack 001.JPG

tack 002.JPG

tack 003.JPG

  • Like 2
Posted

soooo... What should I make next?

I'd like a dedicated 2784/2824 movement holder as well as a 2892-A2 holder. I don't have a 2892 kicking around at the moment I don't think...

Any other ideas?

  • 2 years later...
Posted

Welcome back. What advantage do you find in keeping the balance suspended as opposed together with cock upside down under the dust tray?

Posted

Thanks. 
 

I think the tack is easier. Just grab the assembly with your tweezers and set it in place. It seems to just fall into alignment with the fork. That was the whole reason for opening this- I dropped it and it stopped, so I figured the balance wheel or pallet fork jumped. Pallet fork was fine, and once I set this in and lined it up, it started running before the screw was in. 
 

This kept excellent time before it hit the floor and still does now, so no adverse effect to hanging it. 
 

It was only hanging a few minutes. Just long enough to check the escapement function. 

Posted
1 hour ago, Tudor said:

I dropped it and it stopped, so I figured the balance wheel or pallet fork jumped. Pallet fork was fine, and once I set this in and lined it up, it started running before the screw was in. 

Overbanking can be diagnosed and fixed without removing the balance. Rotate gently the balance with a brass tweezer or wood, it will move one direction but having a firm stop in the other. Loosen the cock screw, lift a the balance rim a bit and rotate in the direction where it couldn't go. It will start running, tighten back, check on the timegrapher and if no more trouble job is done.

Posted

Probably but I wasn’t sure of the extent of the damage. 
 

Once it was out, and I knew it was simple, I sorted it out. 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I believe @nickelsilver has a setup like that.
    • I posted pictures earlier in this thread. My lathe and mill are two separate instruments. I think I have seen examples of putting a milling head on a lathe bed...but not certain.
    • Timex Camper, September 1994, new to me. Strap is an old perlon with "Germany" in script etched into the resin on the tail end. Not Horlon or Eulit I believe. History unknown, running strong, losing less than a minute a day. Goals for this: Wear it a ton! Buy crystal lift, clean out the gunk around the ring and under the crystal Eventually swap into a stainless steel case. I've seen a member who has swapped a Timex mechanical movement into the Timex J.Crew quartz field watch case.
    • One of the problems we would have with a watchmaker's lathe is they were made over considerable span of time and manufacturing in the early days probably wasn't as good as it was today. Then if you look at the older catalogs typically it was just the head a few collets and something to rest graver on. So basically a basic lathe with over time things acquired but acquired things may or may not fit. Order today you purchase a used lathe that all kinds of nifty bits and pieces from a seller that acquired from? This would come back to that the basic watchmaker's lathe was used for basic watchmaking like turning things with a hand graver. Then limited indexing is fine because you can make things like stems Which don't need a whole bunch indexing   In the link above the word vector is mentioned and at the link below you can purchase one. Then of course you're going to need the motor that's a little bit extra for the price. https://www.hswalsh.com/product/lathe-vector-watchmakers-48-collets-hl11. That you're going to need some bonus parts like these found this picture online show the classic way of classic gear cutting.   The lathe could have a much bigger indexing disk but it has to be mounted close to the edge. Otherwise you're going to have a whole bunch of smaller disks like this which I think has notches rather than holes. Then as wonderful as these pictures look actually cutting a gear with this is not entirely fun. Look at all is belts all pulling on things and this is a watchmaker's lathe lightweight with lots of bits and pieces attached. It would make more sense if you actually cut a gear with something like this and it tends to be it's not really the best way to do it looks nice on paper but it is not the best way to go. Reality for cutting watch parts would be a bigger machine is much better. Than getting rid of all those belts and pulleys also good. Here is an interesting channel I would've liked of found a different video but this was nice and short if you look at his video as he uses a stepping motor and worm gear assembly for the indexing plate. In this particular video it gets attached to the lathe at about one minute and seven seconds and it looks like it's hiding looks like he has a Sherline. I do know he's had other stuff you'll just have to go through his videos to find it. Then at about one minute and 22 seconds you find out if you set up things appropriately. It's always bad we end up with half a tooth at the very end. Then you will note big lathe yes he's getting a big gear but you could easily cut a watch gear with the setup. And it definitely way more stable than a watchmaker's lathe.         Oh here's a company they been in business since 1911 http://www.fwderbyshireinc.com/  
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
×
×
  • Create New...