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Posted

This has taken me so long! The clock workshop has been closed due to covid, so everything ground to a halt. 
 

Anyway, I’ve re-assembled most of it for testing. Took ages to get striking adjusted so that that the gathering pallet locked promptly after the final strike. And also getting the run-to-warning adjusted. 
 

Still need to soak test the going train. 

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Posted

Will do. There is some pitting left on the steel parts of the striking work, but I didn’t want to remove much material (plus you won’t see it once the dial is on). The curved steel parts I put in a tumbling machine as they were very rusty. The clock had been kept somewhere damp (perhaps a garden shed). 
 

The fusee chains were also very rusty and seized, so I cleaned them ultrasonically in ammoniated oil-based watch cleaner. Then I soaked them in grease mixed with solvent which was then dried off. Time will tell if that is a successful method, but it’s a modern way of lubricating bicycle chains, so I thought I’d try it. 

Posted

As long as the chains are clean and all the links are loose when winding so they sit in the grooves on the fusee  that will be fine. You can't help pitting on steel parts, that's rust for you. 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Some more photos, including the dial-side striking work. I only cleaned the dial-side components since they are not normally visible and I didn’t want to remove any material. I did however dress the screw heads as some of them were very marred. 
 

I’ve cased it now, but may take it back out to adjust the exact time of striking - it strikes at 5 minutes past, so I may un-mesh and slip the motion works slightly to bring it forward. 
 

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

Its always nice that all screws are cleaned and polished. One thing I have noticed, its a good idea after fitting the steel pins for the ratchet wheels to bend them into an S shape this will prevent them from ever slipping out. You don't want them to give because the damage that will cause will be formidable.   

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