Got this Balmain Paris watch off eBay for cheap to practice my buffing and polishing. The bracelet is much too big to fit me so I need to remove a few links, but this bracelet is like nothing I’ve seen before.
It has pin holes on one side but nothing on the other. I tried pushing to see if the pins are spring loaded but no luck... I thought it was likely that they were screws but I put a few different flatheads inside and they never caught onto anything. I’ve cleaned the holes out the best I could (the watch was very dirty) but I can’t fully see in there, with my loupe on it just looks flat with no screw pattern. Does anyone know how to remove these links?
I have on my bench a Timex Automatic (would it be a Viscount, circa 1979?) marked 37869 10979, 38 mm dia. with day & date. Symptoms that the owner/dealer wants me to correct are 1) the stem does not seem able to find that first detent where the date & day can be set, and 2) crown is unbelievably worn down and he wants a new stem-&-crown if I can get one.
I think I might need a new setting lever too. So far, the impression I get is of a degree of wear. The stem *seems* to slide in and out almost too easily. And I can't get it to stay in that sweet spot where the day or date rings turn. I will be stripping it down further in a bit, but I wanted to hear if this might be a common problem. I'm also hoping @JerseyMofinds this.
My Timex Waterbury 2018 backlight was intermittent from new. This was a 60th birthday present which I really appreciated so I didn't want to try and return it in the heat of the Pandemic. After about a month the Idiglo stopped working altogether even though the watch keeps excellent time.
The illumination itself was working fine when it worked at all. The problem was that pushing the watch crown inwards to activate the light seemed at fault. Towards the end I found I had to pull the crown out slightly and then press to get the light to come on. This ran the risk of accidentally changing the position of the hands which meant I couldn't trust the time afterwards. It was getting annoying!
Following advice in the forums I used a stout bladed knife and popped the back off by lifting the tabbed part against the nearest lug. Replacing the back was going to be very tough but more on that later.
The scratches on the crystal look terrible in this picture but it's hardly noticeable in reality.
The fault did appear to be with the on/off switch mechanism so that's what I went looking for.
When you press on the crown the sprung lever should be pressed against the gold plated electrical contact and complete the circuit for the light. The spring then returns the crown, the circuit is broken and the light goes off again.
Ok so cool. I know how it is supposed to work now but it's so simple, how can it not be working? To make matters worse it did work absolutely perfectly with the back off! So I figured that I had mended it and put the back cover back on. This was VERY HARD. I couldn't press the thing hard enough to make it snap back and all that happened was that the cover 'see-sawed' around and I started to worry that I would damage it. So in the end I pushed the cover as far into position as I could and then clamped it between two pieces of wood in a table vice. Protecting it with layers of paper towel I gradually increased the pressure - fully expecting to crush the crystal - until it popped back on. I'd been very careful to clean the surfaces around the seal and replace the rubber gasket without any twists that might compromise the water resistance.
But the backlight was still faulty. Exactly the same. I guess the stem was touching the lever while the back and retaining parts were removed.
I took the back off again and decided to go a bit further this time. The stem was removed very easily by pressing the little locking tab.
I don't have a picture of it happening but when I was handling the case to get the stem out a tiny, tiny circlip fell out as well. About 1.75mm diameter. I'd never seen one of these things so small!
Here's a picture of it close to the groove it should be clipped into. I know that holding it with a magnetic pick could risk magnetising it but I tried tweezers and immediately realised that the tiny thing would go flying into orbit and be lost forever.
How am I supposed to get the circlip into the groove without it disappearing across the room?
The answer was Blu-Tack. I pressed the circlip into it with the open part upwards and then pressed the watch stem down on to it until it clicked in.
And that was it. I replaced the stem and did the scary vice thing again to replace the back and it was done.
Considering how many Indiglos have been sold around the world I was surprised that there was just nothing like this on the internet so I'm posting to help others in the future. It was pretty easy to do once I knew what was needed. But it was also VERY fiddly and you really should be aware that losing the circlip or crushing a watch in a vice are likely to void your warranty!
See you out there,
I recently came across this while digging thru a bag of watches. It looked interesting and all of the Google hits for "Swiss Made Timex" are in reference to the American Documents series. I've got to assume I'm not searching the right keywords. I was hoping somebody might have a little information on the subject. While looking recently, I couldn't locate almost any Swiss Made. Most of the watches I did find were quartz movements. Thanks for any insight the community can muster!
Hey, new to the hobby and found myself starting with old timex watches. I have found that when I swapped my m24 movement with an m72 movement my second hand will slip and fall to the 6 o'clock position when the face is held perpendicular to the ground. Any ideas for a newbie?
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It is very hard to see that line on my case. But the ring must be there. I attached a couple of pics. One is the top of the case - you can see that the crystal came loose on one side. I tried to get the same view you did in the other pic. Not sure if you can see it. So is it possible to push the ring out from inside? Also what is the best source for a new crystal? Thanks much for your photo!
Hello, I have a problem with my ETA2801-2. Initially the watch was running great, but it was skipping while winding. I guess I made a mistake and pulled the train bridge in order to check the mainspring, afterwards I figured that wasn’t necessary. Anyway, after putting everything back together it was running with low amplitude and became impossible to regulate to anything over -120spd. I decided to pull the bridge again, and clean all associated parts in ultrasonic, and re-lubricate. Unfortunately nothing has changed, it still runs with low amplitude - about 230 and there is no way to make it run any faster than -120spd. What could be the reason behind it? Here is how it looks like on a time grapher.