I recently bought myself a cheap repair kit and I successfully changed the battery on this watch that was dormant in a drawer for about 4 years!
However, the problem is I haven't done something right as the day sub dial is ticking away same as the second hand sub dial!, I'm sure it isn't meant to do that.
I'm obviously putting it back together incorrectly and also the two little white plastic cogs you can see in the pics, I can't remember where they go?! If someone please can talk me through the process it would be massively appreciated or any pointers, advice would be great. Thank you
Greetings all. I think I may have made a mistake in buying a GP watch that has the 641-875 quartz movement in it. It's a nice looking watch, with a very solid case, but I didn't find out about the caliber number until after I bought it. The seller did not have an image of the movement. Since I usually like GP movements, I thought it was worth a little gamble on getting it running, even if I had to clean it. After the auction ended I found out about these GP quartz movements that are impossible to get parts for, and that the dead ones usually need a circuit that is made of unobtainium.
Since the watch had an old battery (Union Carbide brand) in it I figured that I might get lucky and get it running with a fresh battery. I wasn't counting on that happening since the guy who sold it was a watch guy. It would be hard to believe that he didn't at least try a new battery in there. Anyway, it didn't get it running.
Does anyone know about these rather interesting old quartz movements? I believe it is from the late seventies perhaps? Is there any use in seeing if one of those quartz movement "spinners" could free things up? Unfortunately, it's not like GP provides technical info the way a company like ETA does, so if I take it apart I'll have to take a lot of images as I do. Anyway, any help on this is appreciated. Thanks ahead of time. Stay healthy, all. Cheers.
I am considering selling leather watch straps, but I have a question before I blindly go ahead and produce a bunch of them.
I am wondering if anybody who has worked in the industry for a while can tell me what the most common sizes are of strap pins or lug widths?
I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
I new to this forum and I am looking for some advice please. I have a Breitling Top Time 2006-33
I have removed the rear cover and taken of the winder and unscrewed the screw hold the movement
the movement is free within the body, however I cannot see how to remove it from the body. Any suggestion or help would be most welcome. Regards Rob1949
Hi, I recently purchased a Seiko GMT Perpetual off eBay. The watch has a 8f56 Movement which is the high accuracy quartz movement.
The watch was purchased with a low battery (indicated by the second hand ticking every 5 seconds).
I've since replaced the battery and reset the perpetual calendar, the watch was working for about 3 hours and then just stopped. I've since tried to reset the perpetual calendar again and it doesn't do anything just completely dead.
I recently went to a local watch repair shop and they said it would need a entirely new movement and would set me back £250 for it. It would however be done by Seiko not themselves.
Any help is much appreciated.
Some might have noticed I started a thread first about buying, then about making my own.
A friendly cautionary tale to those like myself who are just getting into this hobby and like the wonderful pictures of benches on Amazon and eBay. It seems that all who sell benches, sell the one I purchased.
I was reluctant to note the manufacturer, but it's necessary for this post. Doesn't matter from whom you purchase, just be aware of a few things. The drawer assemblies are laid back-down, and any dropping and/or gravity causes the false fronts to stay put, as the drawers themselves drop. This results in the fronts splitting, splintering and ending up with sharp staples where the front used to be. The layout is classic (from what I've been seeing) but the quality is simply not there. ALL wood is veneer, and the backs and sides could be split by a stern talking to. Some list the manufacturer, many don't. Some have a nameplate, some don't, but Grobet is the manufacturer and it seems these were made by the hundreds, boxed, and sit on warehouse shelves.
Lastly, the wood is dehydrated and shrunk to the point where the typical hardware holes no longer line up. You can certainly fix this, but as my wife said, "You're putting that $700 desk back in the box." (That included shipping).
Last word: do not buy a desk unless you can put your eyes on it. Mark Twain's quote comes to mind: "Beleive nothing of what you hear, and 50% of what you see."
In the event you need a time-sensitive answer, I'd guess that watchweasol did mean to use the stem that came with the replacement movement. Perhaps that is because it will not have wear on it that the old one will have. It probably won't matter much though, providing the watch it was in was winding and setting well before replacing it. If you use the new stem you will likely have to cut the stem a touch and fit the crown.
"Set" position means with the stem pulled out in the position to set the hands.
I would like to try my hand at doing some different types of case finishes (circular brushing, radial lines of sunburst finishes etc.), and I,ve seen these finishes done on small lathes with the 3 jaw and the results looked quite good. Would the extra steps in setting up the 4 jaw be evident in the results that I would get?