Jump to content

Strange Lathe Thread


jdrichard

Recommended Posts

13 hours ago, jdrichard said:

Last note: picked up a nut today and it fit perfect. Need to cut it and compress it a bit. Still confused as i don’t think it is an acme thread


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

This is not it an acme thread.   There is no reason to think it was and lots to think it wasn't, but proof positive is that the metric nut fit perfectly.

Why do you need to cut it and want to compress it?   imo this is fruitless exercise; describe what are you trying to achieve and if I can I'll be glad to describe how to get there....but imo its not going to be through the plastic deformation of a nut.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is not it an acme thread.   There is no reason to think it was and lots to think it wasn't, but proof positive is that the metric nut fit perfectly.
Why do you need to cut it and want to compress it?   imo this is fruitless exercise; describe what are you trying to achieve and if I can I'll be glad to describe how to get there....but imo its not going to be through the plastic deformation of a nut.

The Lathe requires a nut that stays in place once it is snugged up against the tail stock spindle. The other lathe nuts i am trying to emulate all have a slot that you use to do the final adjustment of the nut. It goes on a bit snug. So i want the nut to be snug and to do this the nut that i purchased needs to be compressed a bit. So i plan on grinding it down to reduce its length, cutting the slot and then , perhaps, heating it and compressing it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, jdrichard said:


The Lathe requires a nut that stays in place once it is snugged up against the tail stock spindle. The other lathe nuts i am trying to emulate all have a slot that you use to do the final adjustment of the nut. It goes on a bit snug. So i want the nut to be snug and to do this the nut that i purchased needs to be compressed a bit. So i plan on grinding it down to reduce its length, cutting the slot and then , perhaps, heating it and compressing it.

Use two nuts, tighten them against each other - lock nuts.  afaik that is the OEM set up for that machine.   I mentioned it before - you don't like that approach?   For lots of reasons I think trying  plastic deformation of the nut will be a problem and have not seen a machine put together that way. 

 

Edited by measuretwice
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Use two nuts, tighten them against each other - lock nuts.  afaik that is the OEM set up for that machine.   I mentioned it before - you don't like that approach?   For lots of reasons I think trying  plastic deformation of the nut will be a problem and have not seen a machine put together that way. 
 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good job. You see either split nuts like this, or alternatively pairs of nuts with one acting as a lock-nut as measuretwice suggests. 

The latter is commonly used for cup/cone bearings on bike hubs and on older headsets. It’s worth mentioning that tightening the locknut with the other held static actually pushes the static nut further. Presumably as the threads are compressed closer together. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I read that same article last night  H.  I think epilame is too much headache for me, sources aren't always accurate, some conflicting. Such is the GRAVITY of this situation, Is it ok if i just STICK  to a thixotropic oil 🤣
    • Not sure I follow along. As I stated in one of my previous posts, the epilame will remain intact between rubbing parts as long as the surface is lubricated by oil or grease. Maybe it's just a coincidence, but note how the epilame-treated surface is illustrated in @Waggy's post. It looks like the oil is exposed to a binder (epilame!) so that it can't move sideways.
    • The epilame under the oil will also be removed  Unless the oil makes a barrier between the epilame and the escape teeth 😅 I think i need two strong coffees now 🤣
    • If we use the rub-off epilame method of pallet stones (run dry for a few minutes before applying the epilame) where will the oil go/be transported when it is pushed away from the impulse surface by the escape wheel teeth? Onto the epilame-treated sections of the pallet! Once the oil has been applied/transported to the epilame-treated sections of the pallet where will it then go? Nowhere as the oil will remain on the epilame. So, perhaps the run-dry method defeats its intended purpose leaving the pallet impulse surfaces dry!? If, on the other hand, we do not remove the epilame from the pallet stones where the escape wheel teeth come in contact with them I'd expect more oil to remain where we want it and need it. Yes, I agree, that is the question, and my gut feeling tells me that is exactly the case. Epilame was created to have an adhesive trait and the oleophobic property is just a side effect.  
    • Might that be the viscous nature of oil resisting gravity H  ,  we have been comparing water and hydrophobic surfaces which are similar in principle but water is much less viscous than oil. I guess what we trying to discover is if epilame also has an adhesive trait as well as being oleophobic. Plus the oil dropet has very little mass for gravity to work on, like watching tiny water beads that can grip onto vertical glass until they are connected together to increase their mass then run down. Gravity isn't the only factor at play when oil is placed on pallet stones. The oil receives a lot of bashing that may push it out of position ? Thinking about it if the oil stays in position for 10 minutes enough time for the escape wheel to scrape off the epilame , then  a walled in lubrication has been achieved,  the epilame is no longer beneath the oil ( possibly mixed into the oil )
×
×
  • Create New...