Jump to content

A new tool in my restoration arsenal


khunter

Recommended Posts

I just received another ebay gamble that seems to have paid off. An inexpensive  ($50) gold plating setup, for restoring those pesky gold plated parts that some hack couldn't keep his bare fingers off of lol. Here's a couple pictures of an old screw I tried it out on. Polished with the dremel and felt wheel before plating, I didn't try to get all the nicks out of the slot. BTW, this was just a plain steel bridge screw, not previously plated.

The electrical part is basically a 5v wall charger, a stainless anode and an alligator clip for the part. Plating took about 15-20 seconds. 

2018-01-26 23.25.37.jpg

2018-01-26 23.25.12.jpg

2018-01-26 23.24.45.jpg

2018-01-26 23.45.22.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, ro63rto said:

Looks great emoji106.png
I should look into this myself. Got a few bits that need replating like the bezel on one of my 7a38's

PljntxC.jpg

Very nice piece!

Depending on the base metal you might need extra solutions, and it's all explained all over YouTube, etc, but it's super easy. The main thing is prep, the higher the polish before plating the better, and thoroughly clean of course. For the bits I'm working on that little 4oz jar of plating solution will last a LONG time, but they make larger quantities as well. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, measuretwice said:

That turned out well....I'd be afraid of wanting to gold plate everything in site :)

For some reason the dog has been avoiding me since I started experimenting :)

I have a few Illinois movements with gold hardware that could definitely use some TLC, I'll have to keep reminding myself that "less is more" or I'll end up with a big gold lump lol.

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, teegee said:

Nice! You think it would plate thick enough for a bezel?

Do they have a chrome/nickel plating setup as well?

Yes they do, and I'm not sure the supplied power pack would have enough amperage for large pieces, but an adjustable voltage power supply would do just fine, Under load the voltage should be around 5-7 volts, the packaging says 8 but I think that's a little high, at least from what I've read online....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hell0 @nevenbekriev. Thank you for your advice. I have removed the old setting using my staking set--I will keep the KIF spring, since it is still good.  I am awaiting the replacement setting, and will update when I do that. In the mean time, I looked at the escape wheel and it looks ok. What do you think?    
    • Aloha All, I recently bought this Seitz tool on eBay, but it is missing some pushers reamers.  I ended up ordering new parts for those that were missing before I received the actual Seitz tool (bad idea).   Upon inspecting the pushers/bits, I noticed 23 of the 56 provided with the set had no numbers. Further inspection revealed a huge difference in the quality of those unnumbered.  Do all Seitz pushers/bits have a number on them?  I'm pretty sure that 33 of the 56 I received are cheap Chinese knockoffs.  The worst part is that I ordered $80 of parts to replace the missing pushers/bits, and now I'm looking to return the tool. I'm not crazy, right? If these are Seitz parts, they should all be numbered, correct? The first two pictures are the Seitz (numbered), and the other pictures are the suspect parts.  Will I even be able to get a refund?  Thanks, Frank     
    • It was £10 + min fee, total £16, could not leave it there. Its a Stanton A.D.2. http://stanton-instruments.co.uk/
    • Chief- The picture below shows the three parts from the dial side that are most useful to "fingerprint" a movement in conjunction with the diameter of the movement.  That's why forum participants are always asking for dial side photos in posts asking for identification.  As far as the setting lever screw, it actually sits loose in the main plate. The threads engage the setting lever below, and the elongated stem above the shoulder sticks through a hole in one of the bridge plates so that it's held captive if unscrewed all the way.  So you may be fine as far as that goes. 
    • So I found what I believe is the setting lever screw! Am I right in thinking the screw next to the click is the correct one for the setting lever? However if it is, it doesn't fit in the hole which I believe is for it! I can get the lever to sit nicely on the stem and line up with a hole, but the screw only goes as far as the shoulder and stops. It's as though the hole is too small! The dial side has been disassembled by the way, the other wheels are in my tray
×
×
  • Create New...