Jump to content

How To Dimagitize A Air Spring On A Watch


Recommended Posts

When I've demagnetized a watch, I've done it before taken it appart. One way of knowing if it needs demagnetizing is by using a compass. If it, when placed under the watch and moved away from it, gets oriented/moves towards the watch, then the watch should be demagnetized.

 

The reason to demagnetize the movement when inside the watch and before servicing, is because of:

 

1.- the hairspring is protected since it is held in position so vibrations should not affect it too much.

2.- If there is any debris stuck to the movement, they are released as the watch is demagnetized. Therefore, cleaning is "more" effective. The released particles go with the cleaning. If demagnetized after maintenance they act like sand paper screwing up the parts inside so to speak.

 

Also, when demagnetizing, the hairspring becomes very hot and may loose its temper so some demagnetizing tools are simply too powerfull and should not be used.

 

This is what I've been told by a watchmaker. I always follow this advise and have never had any problems.

 

I bet someone with more experience in the forum can give a better solution.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I demagnetize before working on a movement as well, for all the reasons Bob has pointed out, plus it protects your tools from getting magnetized as well.

 

I also do it after the watch has been reassembled prior to adjustment\calibrating ... that's my 2 cents worth.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I demagnetize before working on a movement as well, for all the reasons Bob has pointed out, plus it protects your tools from getting magnetized as well.

 

I also do it after the watch has been reassembled prior to adjustment\calibrating ... that's my 2 cents worth.

 

Agreed! It is very essential to demag after cleaning if you are using a watch cleaning machine with a motor :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good to know that bit Mark, thank you for pointing it out. Do an ultrasonic qualify for after cleaning demagnetizing? Maybe that's an exception? Please, advise and thank you in advance.

 

Not entirely sure but I would just make it standard practice to demag after any cleaning cycle no matter what the format :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I have never understood how a square can be produced on a lathe, seen plenty of videos but not sure how it works. How do you make the huck on the arbor?
    • personally from my point of view I would say no. This is where more than just an evaluation on one side is needed somebody needs to take the watch apart and see what else is bad. Like it's possible the pivots for those wheels are missing which we really can't see in the picture right now. Then that does appear to be rather heavy rust on the balance bridge and I wonder where else were going to find that rust? just a little clarification here are you new to working on an Omega 1010 watches or are you new to working on watches altogether? The reason I need the clarification is that if you're new to watches and even if this watch came to you for free repairing it is going to be extremely expensive as Omega watches tend to be very expensive for spare parts. you never can tell about watch companies what part numbers we can find.of course the biggest problem of all is this is Omega watch part of Swatch group and Swatch group doesn't like us so they're not going to sell you the spare parts unless you have a swatch account. then if you have to find aftermarket Omega parts because they know that nobody can get those parts that tend to be really expensive is why repairing Omega watches is going to be very expensive. According to the parts list found at the link below there were some jewels available I'm not sure if they're the right one because I haven't quite figured out which jewels those are yet. I'm also attaching a PDF of the parts list to help you identify whatever it is you're going to need it looks like some of the plates were once available although getting a new plates will be problematic it might actually be better to find a scrap watch to steel parts from.   http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=OME_1010       Omega 1010_complet_2236.pdf
    • You mean all that stuff about aliens and black helicopters isn't true?
    • Thanks yes it’s nice to make tools and equipment if we can , I needed a fixed steady for my Pultra I had one for a Pultra with 70mm centre  and I was going to cut it down to be able to use it on my P type ( 50mm centre) but it seemed a shame to butcher such a rare item so made one. Dell
    • Go and drill with 0.4, then finally turn the piece to size untill it fits the hole. Don't worry, if something happens, You can turn new arbor.
×
×
  • Create New...