Jump to content

Need Advise in Removing Tourbillon Movement (SeaGull maybe)


Callac

Recommended Posts

I've been looking for a forum like this for a while. My Minorva Tourbillon watch has a hand that fell off. Now this is not the time or place to discuss the ups and downs of of purchasing an inexpensive tourbillon watch. However I do like to watch and love to have it back in my wrist. Issue is I cannot get the movement out. I opened the back and was unable to remove the movement from there then I was advised to try to get the moving out from the front but I'm having real problems getting the front bezel and Crystal off. I've attached some pictures they're not the greatest, I'll upload some better ones if needed but any help would be appreciated here. Thanks in advance. 
I thought about forcing the crystal out with air pressure, because all I need to do is just access the front of the dial. However then I realized it if I pressure the front crystal out the back display case will probably pop out first.

IMG_20171119_100617.jpg

IMG_20171119_100653.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alright so it works like this: normally you would have to remove the case back, the crown and stem and the pushers/buttons (sometimes you can remove the movement without removing the pushers). Afterwards the movement and dial should come out (sometimes you might have to remove 2 screws as well on the sides of the movement). Do you even know whether the watch is a front loader (movement comes out from the front) ?

Edited by Chopin
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your response. I initially thought it was a regular back removed movement. I remove the back and took out the crown and stem, but the movement refused to come out the only thing it did was rotate. There were a few screws visible but I was unsure which one I would need to loosen if it was even possible to loosen the movement to remove it through the back. Someone that advised me that it's a front removal and I've been working on that assumption ever since. Would you be able to show me what the screws may or may not remove the movement from the back?

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm talking about something like this not screws ON/INSIDE the movement. Some movements require you to rotate them so that they can be removed. You should post a photo of the watch with the case back removed.

Also, if the watch would be a front loader then does it have any space between the mid-case and the front bezel (the one that the glass is attached to) ?

Rolex-shockproof-6426-clamps.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are no screw is attached to tabs as in the one you have pictured. There was a tiny what look like a cab under the front bezel in between the front bezel or Crystal casing and the mid-frame. That's why when someone had told me and maybe a front loading movement and made sense, however I've tried to open it up that way with absolutely no luck. I will post pictures when I have a few seconds. Thanks for your help.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have not worked on worked on one of these movements but I looks like to me that It removes in the conventional way. The three screws I have identified are they by any chance half rounded at their tops so you just turn them to release the case ring. A closer pics of the movement might be better to give more advise.

 

5a11e3610e4f7_ScreenShot2017-11-19at19_56_05.png.fbc25d2cf9d8bdf101f161b12f6791ab.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The three screws are rounded. I'll definitely try your idea, just how many turns do I unscrew them?
I've included some more pictures that aren't the greatest but on my phone photos of the best I can capture.
(I don't know if that's what you intended, but I just realized the caption of a my post, I wrote advise instead of advice. But I guess you know what I meant.) Thanks again to both of you for taking the time to respond I appreciate it more than you can imagine!b93c8bcb4d3e749476c0b4c72218ae6b.jpg2b0a3c654b8cb25f9c814fb51eccd6dc.jpg5374bfca0d4b7f505b1370509e72cfc2.jpg

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll say it again, you have to remove the crown and stem and perhaps the pushers as well. Whether it's a back loader or a front loader you have to do this first...

I can see 2 screws at the sides which might require removing... The ones that sit into those 2 spaces on the sides of the movement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did that. I removed the crown/stem, and the movement just rotated, but didn't come out. The pushers are not connected to the movement, but rather push up against small tabs that are part of the movement.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does it wobble at all ? Sometimes you need to fiddle around a little bit to remove it (careful not to use excessive force).

Does the movement itself sit in a form of threaded recess inside the case ? (some require you to rotate the movement around until some tabs reach some spaces in the case and then it can be removed)

If you turn it to the side, do you see any space on the case ? Between a supposed mid-case and a supposed bezel and glass.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I didn't notice anything that would match any of those suggestions. However tonight I will remove the two side screws again and try your ideas and see if I have any luck with that. Thank you again I will keep you updated.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It looks to me like it comes out the front.

The milled bezel may unscrew or it may need a case knife to pry it off. Once it is removed you need to remove the stem and both of the recessed screws that allow the movement to turn when loosened. With these two screws removed the movement should come out the front.

That's how I would proceed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It looks to me like it comes out the front.
The milled bezel may unscrew or it may need a case knife to pry it off. Once it is removed you need to remove the stem and both of the recessed screws that allow the movement to turn when loosened. With these two screws removed the movement should come out the front.
That's how I would proceed.
Issue is it's not a screw-in bezel, and I've tried to pry it open, but I've had no luck at all. Couple that with the fact that I don't know for certain it's a front load movement......

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have not worked on worked on one of these movements but I looks like to me that It removes in the conventional way. The three screws I have identified are they by any chance half rounded at their tops so you just turn them to release the case ring. A closer pics of the movement might be better to give more advise.
 
5a11e3610e4f7_ScreenShot2017-11-19at19_56_05.png.fbc25d2cf9d8bdf101f161b12f6791ab.png
Did you see the pics I've added? Would you still assume the three rounded screws need to be loosened?

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does it wobble at all ? Sometimes you need to fiddle around a little bit to remove it (careful not to use excessive force).
Does the movement itself sit in a form of threaded recess inside the case ? (some require you to rotate the movement around until some tabs reach some spaces in the case and then it can be removed)
If you turn it to the side, do you see any space on the case ? Between a supposed mid-case and a supposed bezel and glass.
To clarify, there is a small notch under the "supposed bezel and Crystal" but I've been unsuccessful in prying it open from there. Do you think the fact that there is a notch there is an indication that it's a front loader?

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just spent some time with the watch, and there seems to be a lip or groove preventing the movement from coming out the back. Seems I need to remove the front bezel and Crystal. I already got three cuts last night trying this exact thing.... Oh well....

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had another look this morning these must be the screws too loosen. Remove the stem and it should drop out. DO NOT UNDO the SCREWS I originally suggested or it will damage the movement.
 
5a12915a8b31f_ScreenShot2017-11-20at08_22_41.png.8b349a3ee9cff27158b31291e2e64a35.png
Thanks, I figured as much. I got it open via the front, as it doesn't come out even with those two screws removed. Thanks again.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I suppose it would depend upon what your lubricating with those? for instance what does the manufacturer say about those lubricants? I have a PDF from the manufacture and a rather peculiar statement found on the bottom of the chart. my suspicion is the reason the recommending would be without epilam the HP oils like the spread except when they're in Ruby jewel's with steel pivots. tableEN lubrication 2020.pdf
    • These types of hairsprings become weak with age and very fragile. Which I expect it is that giving you trouble, and that wheel is not the correct one, if it were not bent I don't think the movement would run as the teeth are not the correct height. The problem you have is price which depends on you. It can be repaired but is it worth it to you, because there is little value in the clock. A wheel can be made and hairspring replaced. Or hang on to it and keep looking on ebay which is your best bet for replacement parts or even a complete movement but it will be like finding a needle in a haystack. 
    • I did that also for a few movements - well, mainly in/around the train jewels. I made big efforts to epilame the mainplate WITHOUT getting Epilame into the Pallet fork jewels (where it's not supposed to be, right?). I made litte barriers with Rodico around that jewel and used drops from a syringe to apply on the rest.  However, I've now stopped doing this. For three reasons: 1. It's a hassle and consumes more of this liquid gold. 2. I didn't see the need when using HP1000/HP1300 lubricants and grease for most part. The two places where I'd use 9010 (i.e. escape wheel and balance) receive Epilame in specific places... or the cap-jewel-setting of the balance suspends the oil sufficiently be capillary action (see my "conflict" about using Epilame on the balance jewels).  3. Lastly, and here I really wonder about yours and others' experiences: I felt that applying Epliame to the train jewels left them looking hazy (borderline dirty) compared to the (painstakingly achieved) sparkly clean results of my cleaning process. I just can't help but think that the Epilame residuals would mix with the oil and cause more friction/wear. I don't know.    simple: it'll stay there. It won't move any further. That's exactly what is happening if you epilame a cap stone. You end up placing the 9010 right on top of the epilame and the oil will sit nicely on that spot.
    • There are some parts on Ebay for the seiko 6020A, it may just be a waiting game for someone to strip one down, NOS will be more scarce . K would strip your movement down to the module then start looking at other seiko movement to see if that coil is used, then seek out a seiko part dealer. Also Retrowatches youtube owner Mike may give you some advice try him on his site . He also hangs around amateur watchmaking groups.
    • I would agree, in order to work harden something you need to exceed it's yield strength when it moves from the elastic zone to the plastic zone and you get permanent deformation and work hardening which is fairly close to its failure point, relatively speaking and dependent on the material/alloy of course. In theory you can load something constantly within its elastic range and not suffer work hardening issues.
×
×
  • Create New...