Jump to content

Can somebody here fix this watch for me


faolteam

Recommended Posts

its a swiss army victorinox  model   It’s a Cavalry II Chrono model, listed in computer system as reference 20441 in 2005.

it needs a movement 


I have had a check on the bill of materials and not all of the parts are still available, typically, the complete house.

If somebody can repair this please pm me 

Thanks 

image001 (1).jpg

swiss 3.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

its a swiss army victorinox  model   It’s a Cavalry II Chrono model, listed in computer system as reference 20441 in 2005.
it needs a movement 

I have had a check on the bill of materials and not all of the parts are still available, typically, the complete house.
If somebody can repair this please pm me 
Thanks 
59dfea274b154_image001(1).thumb.jpg.4311636b09d53928e225828ce2437d03.jpg
59dfebaa052b9_swiss3.jpg.7bc4f25db3e11b9ac615f2333f77b87b.jpg



Are you sure you need a new movement or replacement parts??

Can you show us a pic of the movement??

Cheers!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it runs it doesn't need a new movement. I can see the crwon so why would need a new one.

Jeweller shops are the worst place to bring a watch, they know nothing but just want to overcharge for work that is then given to somebody else.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello - Are you based in the UK? I think that there are probably a few people who post into the forum who are capable of working on your watch, but my suggestion would be that it would be best to get a decent diagnosis first, so you can be presented with options in terms of the level of work you’d like them to undertake. Again, I’m sure there are people who can do this on the forum.

As the last respondee mentioned, I too would be wary of the advice given by jewellers shops, given their risk profile for this type of work is often very low.

Send me a PM if you’d like to discuss further.

Kind regards

Andy

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, jdm said:

If it runs it doesn't need a new movement. I can see the crwon so why would need a new one.

Jeweller shops are the worst place to bring a watch, they know nothing but just want to overcharge for work that is then given to somebody else.

Thanks they fixed the crown put a new battery in 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks they fixed the crown put a new battery in 
Are you saying the watch is fixed ? The crown looks fine and of very good quality. Was the stem broken ?
The case back from the photo's looks like the Rolex type.
If you can do the basics yourself. It's normally going to be more economical to replace a quartz movement than have it repaired, unless we're going into the higher quality Eta ebauche etc

Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, faolteam said:

yes crown fixed new battery , but needsa movement 

Doesn't run at all? Or an issue with the chrono function? Seems like the jeweler made you spend money to return it still not?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I said chrono but it is not. Have it opened again and take a good picture to identify the movement, which you can order yourself. Then you can find a local honest battery change shop to install it. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello - Are you based in the UK? I think that there are probably a few people who post into the forum who are capable of working on your watch, but my suggestion would be that it would be best to get a decent diagnosis first, so you can be presented with options in terms of the level of work you’d like them to undertake. Again, I’m sure there are people who can do this on the forum.
As the last respondee mentioned, I too would be wary of the advice given by jewellers shops, given their risk profile for this type of work is often very low.
Send me a PM if you’d like to discuss further.
Kind regards
Andy

Most likely a ronda movement.

Neil


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • hmmmm.... maybe there is a way to skin that cat 🙀 let me think on it... unless anyone else has any ideas? I left the opening in the side of the base and ring quite large to maybe allow you to grip the crown, but appreciate this may not always be possible, especially for small movements where the crown will not extend past the outer wall of the holder. I noticed this also, but after using the holder for a while I noticed that the ring/holder began to wear into shape (rough edges/bumps worn off) and the size became closer to the desired movement OD. Maybe with some trial and error we could add 0.5 mm (??) to the movement OD to allow for this initial bedding-in?
    • Hi nickelsilver, thanks for the great explanation and the links! I'll take a good look in the article.  Especially this is great news to hear! Looking through forums and youtube videos I was informed to 'fist find a case and then fit a movement for it'. But seems that's not the case for pocket watches at least?  I guess I should be looking to find some 'male square bench keys' for now. I was thinking of winding the mainspring using a screwdriver directly, but I found a thread that you've replied on, saying that it could damage the spring. 
    • Murks, The rate and amplitude look OK, and the amplitude should improve once the oils you have used get a chance to move bed-in, also I notice that you are using default 52 degrees for the lift angle, if you get the real lift angle (assuming it's not actually 52) this will change your amplitude - maybe higher, maybe lower. I notice that the beat error is a little high, but not crazy high. At the risk of upsetting the purists, if the balance has an adjustment arm I would go ahead and try and get this <0.3 ms, but if it does not have an adjustable arm then I would probably leave well alone. Just my opinion.
    • Hi everyone on my timegrapher it showing this do a make anymore adjustment someone let me know ?    
    • Maybe I'm over simplifying this and I'm a little late to the discussion, but just by my looking at oil when I use it on a treated cap jewel  the oil stays in one nice bubble, but when I don't it spreads out to the edges of the jewel. I'm not sure (but could well be wrong) but the analogy of a waxed car and rain is accurate in this case, the wax is very hydrophobic and repels the water, however, the process epilame works by is a different physical process based upon cohesion/adhesion (oleophilic) not repulsion (oleophobic)  at least as far as I have read/observed. If one were to use a oleophobic substance equivalent to wax (hydrophobic) then one would need to create a donut shape to fence in the oil, however if one used such a strategy with a epilame which is oleophilic then the oil would sit on the ring of the donut and not in the 'donut hole', exactly where you don't want it. Even if the oil is smeared then the oleophilic epilame should pull it back to the center (see diagram below). Reference For interest the chemical in epilame is 2-(PERFLUOROHEXYL) ETHYL METHACRYLATE, CAS NO: 2144-53-8
×
×
  • Create New...