Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

It is unusual for the jewel to ware they tend to either chip or crack. A picture would help also the movement and caliber will be needed. 

Posted
7 hours ago, justin457 said:

i have a watch that has a dent in the sapphire jewel that the pivot wore a depression in and it doesn't look like i will find a replacement cap jewel any advice ?

You can grind it flat with diamond paste or powder and oil on a sheet of glass.

 

Posted
4 hours ago, justin457 said:

it is a harvey watch and where would i get the diamond powder and what grit to use  

I am using these chinese pastes sold in 5g syringes. Under 1 USD per piece lol

Get the 0.5 and 2.5, the latter is the coarse, use this first and then polish with the other.

s-l1600.thumb.jpg.5332f460ad1f310af9f90d62400b48a2.jpg

Posted
23 hours ago, szbalogh said:

You can grind it flat with diamond paste or powder and oil on a sheet of glass.
 

The jewel should be changed. After grinding the pivot fitting will be incorrect. 

If you require diamond powder (mix with oil) I use Bergeon with 3 different grades & I purchased from Cousins. 

  • Like 1
Posted
5 minutes ago, clockboy said:

The jewel should be changed. After grinding the pivot fitting will be incorrect. 

I do agree that the cap jewel should be replaced, but if the jewel is set in an incabloc type of fitting, you could get away with lapping out the blemish and polishing the jewel.

I say this because the the jewel will be held down by the incabloc spring ensuring that the jewel is seated correctly in the setting.  This in turn will ensure that the original end end float is maintained.

  • Like 1
Posted
10 minutes ago, Geo said:

I do agree that the cap jewel should be replaced, but if the jewel is set in an incabloc type of fitting, you could get away with lapping out the blemish and polishing the jewel.

I say this because the the jewel will be held down by the incabloc spring ensuring that the jewel is seated correctly in the setting.  This in turn will ensure that the original end end float is maintained.

Geo you could be correct, however the original post is not specific as to where it is worn to be 100% sure it is possible. Personally I think it is just not worth the risk & time required so I would just change it (if I could find a replacement that is) 

  • Like 1
Posted
5 hours ago, justin457 said:

the cap jewel is not a incabloc setting it is the old pocket watch cap jewels 

Forget re-finishing the old jewel, you will need to find a replacement.  I can think of a way around the problem, but it would be a bodge so I won't even describe it.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yep…This makes perfect sense. With that large a gap in the serial numbers, they were almost certainly machined on different equipment, hence one should have no expectation of any cross-batch compatibility. I’ll revert to the original bridge. Regarding bending the bridge @nevenbekriev, I’ll give it a try, but I may have to buy some better calipers. My Vernier calipers are only accurate to 0.1mm. Not very accurate. 
    • Yes, what I wanted to say is that the cock is part of the main plate, manufactured together with it and not meant to be interchangeable. Even if the other cock gets in place, it is not sure that the balance then will stay upright. You should use the original cock when it exists and is not destroyed. The adjustment needed by bending it is not irreversible. It is minimal deforming that is needed. No tools are needed. I have pointed to all needed references here for the balance staff endshake checking and correctness confirmation. The only tool needed for the correction is You thumb. The cock must be fixed on the main plate, no need of special plate with holes and so on. If You will feel more confident, then measure with Vernier caliper the height of the top of the cock where the stones are against the main plate bottom when the shim is fitted and try to reach the same height when bending the cock (with no balance in place!!!) Caliper with screw for fixing is perfect.    
    • Thanks for the reply. I polished the head of the screw using 1500 to 10000 lapping paper and a screw polisher. This is why I think the head blued and the rest of the screw didn't. Silly question, how do you polish the whole screw inc threads, if that's what it needs to blue? 100% clean, Elna red and heated ultrasonic bath + IPA rinse. Finally, there is definitely heat leak as there's about a 30c difference between the brass bed and the soldering station temp. Having said that, the bed temp was stable. I will try to search out a better brass pot, but I haven't found one yet, hence the stainless steel bowl. 
    • Agreed but that's where WD40 excels, water displacement. 
    • I would change the container to a thick walled brass one to start with. Looking at you screw pictures they don’t look shiny enough, really it’s best to do a black polish on them before trying. Also make sure once polished they are scrupulously clean, I dunk my experiments in acetone before bluing.   i think the thin walled stainless container to leach away the heat from the shavings, most successful bluing videos for example use thick walled brass to hold a good deep amount of shavings which acts as a better holder of heat.   Tom
×
×
  • Create New...