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Lathe Belts and Oiling

jdrichard

By jdrichard
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david WRT Addict

david

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JD Ricahad,

Yes, those are the type of lathe belts I can't stand. They are the very reason I switched over to O-Rings. I went through the learning curve with the welded belts as well. Even a welded belt that looks perfect still has a hard spot at the seam. I know that some people swear by welded belts but I prefer the seamless O-Rings.

david 

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jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

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JD Ricahad,
Yes, those are the type of lathe belts I can't stand. They are the very reason I switched over to O-Rings. I went through the learning curve with the welded belts as well. Even a welded belt that looks perfect still has a hard spot at the seam. I know that some people swear by welded belts but I prefer the seamless O-Rings.
david 

I will get one so i don't go through the same annoying learning curve. All little sounds bug me:)


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StuartBaker104 Distinguished Member

StuartBaker104

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I'm an o-ring fan too.

Inside the lid of my Boley and Leinen lathe is a stuck on label which says it is essential to use first class mineral (or spindle) oil.

After some research (where I came across as much opinion as there is about watch oils) I bought this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mobil-Velocite-No6-High-Speed-Spindle-Oil-Free-U-K-Postage-/321918165229?var=&hash=item4af3d160ed:m:mA1wRjMUae9aNleEfui4_lQ

For those who care about such things, this is the same oil as is specified for the spindle on Linn Sondek turntables.

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StuartBaker104 Distinguished Member

StuartBaker104

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2 hours ago, canthus said:

Used to sell the stuff and the smallest package was 25 litres!   Maybe they have decanted from this but I bet Mobil will not be pleased to see their brand name used as such.:mad:

If I used my lathe all day every day for the rest of my life I wouldn't get through 25litres of spindle oil, so whilst I knew this had been decanted it seemed like a great idea to me :woohoo-jumping-smiley-emoticon:

I also bought a plastic syringe to fill the oil cups.

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measuretwice WRT Addict

measuretwice

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re urethane belting, the challenge to a good joint is alignment and also to let things sit undisturbed until it cures.  The later is really important on small belts.  I was having a terrible time getting a good joint with 3/32nds belting I used on a pivot polisher and spoke to the manufacturer.  The suggested letting sit overnight which made the difference.

Here's a fixture I made.  It holds the belts in perfect alignment which is important for vibration free operation.  After curing (usually 1/2 an hour) the excess material is trimmed away with a nail clipper and sanding board (if necessary).   You get smooth running joints you can't pull apart.

Its a very simple thing, 4 pieces of 3/4" sq cold rolled steel with reamed holes for dowels.  2 sections form a clamp.  With both belt ends clamped with about .100" sickout out, the two haves are brought about 1/4" apart.  A hot blade is placed between them, the are brought together and you can feel when the belt melts.  Pull the blade out, squeeze together, hold gently with a C clamp and wait

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