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Frozen stem on old Omega


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I have an old Omega ladies watch which I would guess is pre-1920. The keyless work is horribly corroded and I think that the winding wheel is rusted onto the stem. The clutch moves freely but it's impossible to withdraw the stem and I'm guessing that the cause is rust. I sprayed a little WD40 around this area and left it to stew for about a week but still no loosening. I'm attaching a snap - I've subsequently removed the setting lever and bridge.. Any ideas on how to free this up would be appreciated.

Roy

 

 

 

Omega-stem-stuck-6050001.JPG

Edited by skridlov
better pic to follow
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I had a similar problem a while back with a J.W.Benson wristwatch the parts looked worse than the ones in your picture the winding pinion had welded its self to the stem, I disasembled as much as I could and then put it in a ultra sonic cleaner for about four minutes that was enough to free the winding pinion from the stem, Then I soaked the rusted parts in strong tea overnight and then ran the whole lot through my cleaning machine the parts came up far better than I could have hoped for.

I didnt use any kind of cleaner in the ultra sonic just distilled water.

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I would have used penetrating oil in these circumstances.

An alternative for a household remedy is to mix up a paste of white vinegar and baking soda. This is relatively gentle but should eat into the rust enough to free things up.

I've never tried the tea approach suggested by @wls1971 but remember this as a positive approach from a previous posting. 

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OK.

I have some "Shock & Unlock" from motorcycling days. Sprayed a little around the stem. 

Problem with the other methods is that the movement is pretty much complete in its case (with almost impossible to remove without destroying them original leather straps.) I can't see any practical way to strip it without first getting the stem out and dismantling to some degree. Letting it fester with the penetrating fluid. Slightly concerned about how much leverage I can put on the crown in an attempt to budge the stem.

Roy

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Would you have enough clearance to remove the movement from the case with the winding crown removed from the stem if that will unscrew ?

Brilliant worked easily.- and (as usual) obvious once someone's pointed it out. Thanks again.

Roy

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    • We need to identify the movement to help you, but the oldest of these Rolco watches use Aegler-Rebberg movements that lack a calibre number and are very difficult to identify. You may end up having to make or modify a stem to fit . Post pictures of both sides of the movement when you have it and the size of the movement and hopefully it’s one that has a calibre number.  Gruen used a lot of the same Aegler movements at the time and it’s worth comparing your movement with those if you can’t find it labeled as an Aegler or Rolex/Rolco calibre. Best Regards, Mark  
    • Onlly a pro's eye would notice that OH, you've still got it old fella 🙂
    • The triple lobed spring, as you suggest needs to be rotated to remove it or replace it. Suitably shaped pegwood should suffice, but tools (shaped as you describe) for the purpose also exist.  If you have an assorted of replacement springs, a trilobe style KIF spring of the right size might fit.  The other spring securing the jewel also needs rotating. There is a slight opening in the setting at about the 5 o’clock position in your photo and one side of the spring should be able to be removed  there when rotated into position.  Hope that helps, Mark
    • As an update, it transpired the setting on the balance side, with the jewel had one flat end and one curved. When I rotated it enough it popped out. The chaton was entirely conical and a tricky customer but once lubricated and dropped back in I put the flat edge in first and poked it in with the peg wood tool mentioned above (I made it with flattening off the end then sizing with a pencil sharpener before poking a hole in the end) then rotated and it went in well.    For the other side, magnet searching for the spring has been fruitless.    thanks for the link to the other thread
    • Thank you. It didn’t look rusty. For sure old.    Female part was inside the movement, and when I pushed male part, it got broken. I didn’t apply grease. Here is the photo.      Could it be that male part is too thick for some reason?
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