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Omega Speedsonic, ESA9210/Omega 1255 batt leak and corrosion.

Alastair
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Alastair WRT Addict

Alastair

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I recently bought a ESA 9210 powered Omega Speedsonic chronograph in a rather sad state. the Oscillator deck of this one is horribly discoloured and blackened in places, the battery strap screw is broken off on the main plate below the osc deck.

Just to see what was possible with this one, I removed the oscillator plate to see the main plate below. This had faired a little better, having gone a light rainbow colour and not heavily corroded thankfully.
I decided to check the oscillator plate, resonator, coils, index etc. The coils amazingly had continuity and of the correct resistances, resonator is clean, index is dull tarnished colour.
I gave the plate and the rest a clean--which didn't really clean it much, but built it back up with at least clean jewels and fresh 9010 for index and second..

It wouldnt run, even though the coils passed resistance checks, no oscillation, no hum very low current drain of 3uA.

Replaced the RC coil, It wouldn't run, still only 3uA.

Replaced the TR coil, now we had life, it runs, and taking 6uA, Strange, the original TR coil checks fine so does the transistor but just wont work.

I reinstalled the osc deck back to the watch, and jury-rigged a makeshift battery strap--my thinking is to assess the general operation (or not) of the rest of the movement, particularly the Chrono stages, prior to tearing into it for real. Ive read many a story of the chrono decks of these movements and would rather not have to pull that apart....

Well, The watch runs and keeps time, however on starting the chrono, will run for 5-10 seconds then stop, reset/flyback works as it should, the constant seconds display stays running when chrono stops, so looks like we got to tear into its devils-doings, the chronograph deck, with its weird vertical clutches and other oddities!....

ESA 9210.jpg

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Alastair WRT Addict

Alastair

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Its a renovation that I'm both dreading and looking forward to! I just need to devote a whole day for assessment and disassembly etc, and now I have a reasonable camera can do a photo-shoot of the proceedings...

The heavily stained osc plate will prob have to be replaced, I doubt those marks, corrosion and stains can be removed.

--With any luck, an osc plate from a normal Omega 1250 will be the same, as I have one here in another watch, the makers plate is sadly missing from the stained 1255 anyway, at least a nice shiny one from a 1250 is better than none, will have to see...

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rogart63 Distinguished Member

rogart63

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They should be the same. Have a non working movement somewhere? No plate on this either? With a osc plate that looks okay. And the bottom plate is good also. I think?  Interested? PM. 

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=sites&srcid=Z2xlYXZlYW5kY28uY29tfHRlY2huaWNhbHxneDo3MGU1MmQyYjFiZGUwMzAy

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=sites&srcid=Z2xlYXZlYW5kY28uY29tfHRlY2huaWNhbHxneDo2ZWE0M2ZmNWU1MGRmYzdi

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RyMoeller Super WRT Addict

RyMoeller

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On 4/2/2017 at 11:50 PM, Geo said:

Now this is a renovation I will be following!  Remember to take plenty pictures and post them for others to see.

Absolutely agree.  This should be an interesting service.  :thumbsu:

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      Stem removal after fitting hands

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      So leave off the seconds. Stand the movement on its edge, its the dial edge that rests on the pad ( either rubber or cork , something that wont slip ). Use a finger of your left hand to hold the movement upright,  right hand presses the release and flicks out the stem. I do it this way so i can see what I'm under a microscope. But you could hold the movement between two fingers of your left hand, its the right that has to manipulate the stem out by pushing the release and flicking out the stem with  right ring finger nail. Sounds more complicated than it actually is. I guess you could fix a push pin to something solid, then all you need to do is push the release against the pin, leaving your right hand completely free to pull the stem out.
    • HectorLooi
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      By HectorLooi · Posted

      Try putting everything back together and closing the back cover. I think one of the two springs has to contact the metal casing to ground the casing. So when you press the button, it will touch the contact on circuit board and close the circuit.
    • PeterS
      Stem removal after fitting hands

      By PeterS · Posted

      Yes, the seconds hand is the longest and goes almost to the edge of the dial. I can’t quite picture it how you do it on the rubber pad
    • Murks
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      By Murks · Posted

      A don't think so it leaked or damaged it because the watch itself works it just the buttons ain't working not connecting with the circuit board have taken more pictures of where the buttons makes contact with the circuit board.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Stem removal after fitting hands

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I think what peter means oh is once he has fitted the hands and  checked for  alignment if them and that they dont foul, how does he then hold the movement to remove the stem in order to case up. The dial cannot be laid on a cushion or in a movement holder as the hands will get damaged. This can be quite tricky for a beginner, what i do is  to stand the movement on edge on a rubber pad so it doesn't slip. Hold the top edge with one finger then my dominant hand uses 3 fingers to press the stem release and flick out the stem. See below peter, leave off the second hand as this is the longest and gets caught the most, then fit it once the stem is out. Alternatively place the movement in one of the cup style holders, i imagine this is what they are designed for. They only touch the very edge of the dial.  
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